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verruckt  
#1 Posted : 17 years ago
verruckt

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Joined: 4/22/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

I have a Whirlpool dryer model LE5800XMM1 that I've owned for about 13 years. It no longer heats up. About two years ago it wouldn't heat up, and it turned out to be the heating element. Replaced that and life was good. Now same problem. Only this time the element tests fine for continuity. The high limit thermostat also tests good for continuity. Dryer has plenty of voltage going to it, and the timer is working. Dryer will shut off when the time runs out. Anyone have any ideas I can try?
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misterfixall  
#2 Posted : 17 years ago
misterfixall

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check themal fuse on bulkhead above cycling thermostat =and check cycling thermostat ,with wiring diagram showing contacts of timer set on time cycle use meter with dry off +unplugged see if contacts for heater are closed
glen65  
#3 Posted : 17 years ago
glen65

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Originally Posted by: verruckt Go to Quoted Post
Anyone?? getting desperate now.

Before going any further you need to check
the main source voltage going to the dryer.
Pull off the cover that covers up the 3 pin terminal
block where the cord is connected to. Check to see
if any of the wires going to the terminal block are burnt.
Then set your meter to check AC volts and "carefully" measure
the voltage between the three terminals. You should
get 240 between the outer two and 120 between the
center and both of the outer ones. If you don’t then
you could have a problem with the outlet in which
you would need to call an electrician.
verruckt  
#4 Posted : 17 years ago
verruckt

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Originally Posted by: misterfixall Go to Quoted Post
check themal fuse on bulkhead above cycling thermostat =and check cycling thermostat ,with wiring diagram showing contacts of timer set on time cycle use meter with dry off +unplugged see if contacts for heater are closed


This thermal fuse; is it connected to the timer? I have pretty much disassembled this dryer and that is the only fuse I can find. I tested it for continuity, but it has none. Could this be my culprit? Unfortunately it has no part number on it.
Gene  
#5 Posted : 17 years ago
Gene

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Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
verruckt,

If the thermal fuse (#8 on the break down diagram) is open - it has to be replaced. If the part you mentioned is not the thermal fuse then try to locate it on the break down diagram and post the reference number.

- The part number for the thermal fuse is AP3133489

Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool dryer Model LE5800XMW1

Gene.
verruckt  
#6 Posted : 17 years ago
verruckt

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Joined: 4/22/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

Actually what I 'thought' was the fuse, was #5 here
Model LE5800XMW1

At the parts store they told me it wasn't the fuse. So they sold me the one you suggested and went back home. However, I have tested my thermal fuse, and it was good. I also tested what appears to be three thermostats on the same housing as the thermal fuse, they all tested good for continuity. They look exactly like the high limit thermostat on my heat element housing.
verruckt  
#7 Posted : 17 years ago
verruckt

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Joined: 4/22/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

I started over from the very beginning and followed everything, from power source to the heating element. This time, the hi limit thermostat tested bad. In the beginning, it tested good. I've replaced it before, so I know what it is and how to test it. One of the leads was loose, and a little burnt looking which i didnt see the first time. If you wiggled the lead, it would test good, if it was moved slightly it would test bad. So, i replaced it. Plugged in the dryer and started it up. It immediately threw the breaker. My breaker is a double, so it threw the whole thing.
misterfixall  
#8 Posted : 17 years ago
misterfixall

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Joined: 11/7/2007(UTC)
Posts: 622

check to see if any of your wires are are toucing another wire or touching body of dryer .are all your wires at correct connections
glen65  
#9 Posted : 17 years ago
glen65

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Joined: 3/31/2008(UTC)
Posts: 322

Also disconnect the heating element,
Then check the resistance of the element, it should be
somewhere around 8-12 ohms.

Then check to make sure that there is “no continuity”
between ether terminal and case ground
If there is then the element is shorted.
appldoc1@verizon.net  
#10 Posted : 16 years ago
appldoc1@verizon.net

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Joined: 12/14/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2

Did you check the thermal fuse
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