Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 43
|
I have alot of ice build up on the evaporator. I checked the heater and its ok. I'm only getting 0.2 ohms of resistance through the defrost thermostat. is this ok? Is there any way to check the Adaptive defrost time?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
|
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 43
|
So the defrost therostat should be 0 ohms all the time, even when its frozen? and why does the heating element coming on indicate a bad board? If you start a defrost cycle isn't the heating element supose to be on? i would figure the heating element coming on would be normal. I'm just curious.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
[COLOR="Blue"]So the defrost therostat should be 0 ohms all the time, even when its frozen? [/COLOR]
No.
It is only 0 ohms when frozen. It should open a few decrees above freezing.
Stops the herater onve the ice has meted off the coils.
[COLOR="Blue"]and why does the heating element coming on indicate a bad board?[/COLOR]
By the process of elimination, if it comes on, the element is good and the defrost thermostat is good, then the only thing left is the defrost thermostat.
Only other thing it could be is a bad wire/connection but this is very very rare.
[COLOR="Blue"]If you start a defrost cycle isn't the heating element supose to be on?[/COLOR]
Yes.
Forcing a defrost cycle checks the heater and the defrost thermostat (if they come on).
Note that if they do not come on this test does not totally eliminate the timer as the problem. That is why you have to check heater and thermostat with.a meter.
If they then check OK, the odds are the timer is cycling properly but it's contacts are shot. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 43
|
That you very much sir. I am young and very new to the appliance repair business and have no supervisor or trainer to teach me so I am trying to learn all I can. All of the technicians who voluteer their time on this site have been very helpful. I think you for your time and patients
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 43
|
I put the fridge through the defrost mode and nothing happened. what sort of resistance should I be getting from the heater? I'm getting 28.8 ohms through it, and 0.2 through the thermostat when its frozen.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
[COLOR="Blue"]I put the fridge through the defrost mode and nothing happened. what sort of resistance should I be getting from the heater? I'm getting 28.8 ohms through it, and 0.2 through the thermostat when its frozen.[/COLOR]
Both sound OK to me.
Only caveat I have is did you disconnect at least one side of what you were checking. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.
IF both are OK that leaves you with a bad board or broken wire. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
