I have two different centerpost seals for the top of the tub support and brake housing on my Kenmore 110.20982992. The one that is the water seal that the brake tube passes through.

The one that came with the tub support (left in first picture) has a shorter friction wall height and a second seal structure in the bottom of the assembly (second photo). The one that you get if you order it as a separate seal (356934) is labeled 3163 on the bag and has a much taller friction wall height and no second seal structure in the bottom of the seal (third photo) only in the top of the assembly just under the seal taper. Also, the inner top seals are different between the 2 parts. My first seal failed after a few hours in my rebuild so I want to use the correct part for the redo.

Which seal is the better choice?

Also, how do you press this seal in so as not to damage it?

Thanks,

George

It's a new tub support/centerpost pre-assembled with all bearings and seals except the 1 or 2 seals above the top bearing. The parts diagram shows 2 seals at the top but the tub support only came with one I believe (the smaller one in the picture). I have to go back to the house and check. I also have a seal rebuild kit (285203) because I was not sure what the tub spoort came with and I think that only came with one top seal as well (the small one). When I ordered 2 as individual parts as back up, I got the larger one for the first time. So there is confusion as to how many and which style in the very top of the tube. Also if it's only one, do I greese it with Rykon grease as the instruction sheet says for the top of two or leave it dry as the sheet says for the bottom of two?

Thanks,

George

I dissasembled a 1 month old washer and took a closer look at the new support tube to get to the bottom of this question.

The bottom inside structure of the centerpost tube/tub support is unchanged - two small rubber seals in the bottom (359449), packed with Rykon grease, topped with a single metal bearing (8546455). The top of the tube innards have changed. The top bearing is closer to the top of the tube, not even one of the old large top rubber seals (356934) would fit, nevermind the two that used to be called for. In this regard, the exploded parts diagrams and their descriptions are wrong, they have not been modified to show this. Now a single redesigned, smaller seal is used and the bottom section of the seal has a grease channel. The part number for this seal is unchanged (356934). If you just need to replace the 2 top seals in an old tube, you need to try and get a pair of the old larger seal and grease the top one only. If you have a newer tube you need one of the newer small top seals. I have gotten both when ordering 356934.

Also, this single top seal must be greased. I first assembled the washer with the seal dry as was suggested and the seal failed after about 10 hours. The seal started singing loudly at spin speeds and scored the stainless spin tube shaft. Also, in a new installation, the top shoulder of the seal is just below the top of the tube. Be careful because if you are not using a centerpost seal installation tool, the seal can jump past a small recess as the shoulder clears the top of the tube. I have constructed a PVC pipe based installer that fits inside the tube diameter and has an outer sleeve to limit travel.

The install sequence is: 2 lower seals (greased) and bearing. Install the top bearing. Install the brake tube. Pour 1 tsp of turbine oil down the assembly. Pack the top seal with grease and assemble.

George