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mrgh  
#1 Posted : Thursday, April 3, 2008 11:55:00 PM(UTC)
mrgh

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Joined: 4/3/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2

My Whirlpool gas (LP) dryer Model LGR6634BN0 suddenly stopped heating. I checked to see if the igniter was glowing. It was not. I replaced it. Still no heat. I then replaced the solonoid coils, the flame sensor. Still no heat. Next I replaced the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. At first no heat. After a few minutes the dryer started producing the high heat it should and the igniter was glowing. Then the dryer cut down to very low heat outout and has stayed that way. The igniter continues to glow as it should. The only other part I can easily replace is the hi-limit thermostat. I don't know if replacing the hi-limit thermostat could be the missing piece of this puzzle. Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem could be? By the way, the exhaust vent is brand new and clear.
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vtifr  
#2 Posted : Saturday, March 6, 2010 3:32:05 PM(UTC)
vtifr

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Originally Posted by: mrgh Go to Quoted Post
My Whirlpool gas (LP) dryer Model LGR6634BN0 suddenly stopped heating. I checked to see if the igniter was glowing. It was not. I replaced it. Still no heat. I then replaced the solonoid coils, the flame sensor. Still no heat. Next I replaced the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. At first no heat. After a few minutes the dryer started producing the high heat it should and the igniter was glowing. Then the dryer cut down to very low heat outout and has stayed that way. The igniter continues to glow as it should. The only other part I can easily replace is the hi-limit thermostat. I don't know if replacing the hi-limit thermostat could be the missing piece of this puzzle. Does anyone have any ideas of what the problem could be? By the way, the exhaust vent is brand new and clear.


Hello,
If the high limit, thermal fuse or cycling thermostat is open (all wired in series) the ignitor will not glow. The ignitor should turn off after the flame sensor detects sufficient heat to ignite the gas. Is the blower working? If the blower isn't working then that would cause the high limit switch to trip.
mrgh  
#3 Posted : Saturday, March 6, 2010 7:25:33 PM(UTC)
mrgh

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Joined: 4/3/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thanks for the reply, vtifr. I did get it going again a while back. Most expensive was the igniter from Sears parts at $30. The blower was working fine. I replaced the high limit, thermal fuse and flame sensor. ( And previously the solonoid coils) All parts, including the Sears igniter came to about 80 bucks. I checked the belt while I was at it and it looks good. I went through ******** for all the parts except for that igniter. 80 bucks and a little time sure beats buying a new dryer. This dryer is about 20 years old. It still looks good and might last another 20 years now!!
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