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Zappp  
#1 Posted : Thursday, January 14, 2010 12:36:54 PM(UTC)
Zappp

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

I have a Whirlpool Elec Dryer (Model # LER5848EQ5 Serial # MN1401842) and the heat stopped working. I took the back off and saw that the Thermal Cut-Off relay (part # 3399848) shorted and arched the red wire. The dryer stopped working all together after that. If I get a replacement thermal cut-off, will it work again or are there other fuses that might have also blown because of the shorting?

:confused:
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, January 15, 2010 1:53:29 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER5848EQ5 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203406699.pdf

the Thermal Cut-Off relay shorted and arched the red wire. The dryer stopped working all together after that.
Arced to what?
Why did it arc?
Was this something that happened when you opened it up?
Is the unit totally dead now?
Is the power to the unit OK?

If I get a replacement thermal cut-off, will it work again or are there other fuses that might have also blown because of the shorting?
The thermal fuse (Item 9 in Section 3) only effects the heating of the unit and will have not prevent the motor from running.
There is a thermal fuse (Item 7 in Section 3) mounted on the blower that is in the motor's circuit path.


Below is some info on the heater's thermal fuse

Unplug the unit and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Be sure to unplug one side of it when checking it.

If it is blown you have to find out what caused it to go.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the heater is OK then I would also replace the hi-limit thermostat as this should have regulated the temperature so that the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find the cause.
It could be:
A dirty/loose blower wheel
A dirty vent system or it's outside louvers are not opening.
A bad cycling (control) thermostat. Note this is a 4 connector thermostat.
One set is the contacts. The other set is the internal heater, should be around 25,000 ohms. This is used to give you different heat settings.
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