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K.D.  
#1 Posted : Thursday, January 7, 2010 1:42:11 PM(UTC)
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K.D.

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OK - start me at the beginning. I'm new at this.
Washing machine refuses to spin. It makes the sounds of spinning, but does not do so. Clothes are coming out clean but soaking wet. The water does drain.
I have run the machine through the other cycles, and it appears to just have the problems during the spin cycle. The water does drain (as best it can without spinning).

Thanks in advance.
K.D.
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K.D.  
#2 Posted : Thursday, January 7, 2010 2:33:28 PM(UTC)
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K.D.

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I've looked at it a bit more, and sorry if I say the wrong term, but hopefully I'll describe it properly.

I am able to turn the tub clockwise as well as counter lockwise by hand, but it is stiff an takes considerable effort.

I popped the top of the middle stem(? is that the agitator - the thing sticking up in the center of the drum, it's white - hope you know what I'm talking about) It was pretty dirty in there, but there were no gears, etc. Just a nice little bolt that I didn't mess with until I'm directed to do so)

Thought the manual rotating of the tub would help out, but still - jsut makes the noise as if it's spinning (kind of a humming noise), bt no spin. The noise also ramps up a bit, and sounds like it is straining.
Hope these additional notes make sense and help provide the tools to point me in the proper direction.
TIA!
Gene  
#3 Posted : Thursday, January 7, 2010 4:14:46 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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Open and close the lid while it's draining. Would it spin?

If it would not, remove the washer cabinet (instructions are attached) and check the motor coupling (#13 on the diagram).

Check if the clutch (#5 on the diagram) is rotating during the spin. You have to bypass the lid switch while doing that.

Post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL RAS7133RQ0 Automatic Washer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
File Attachment(s):
How to remove the washer cabinet.doc (25kb) downloaded 65 time(s).
How to replace the motor drive coupling.doc (25kb) downloaded 43 time(s).
How to remove the pump.doc (25kb) downloaded 27 time(s).
K.D.  
#4 Posted : Thursday, January 7, 2010 7:52:40 PM(UTC)
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K.D.

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Gene,
Sorry if this a dumb question - but honestly very new at this.
Got the washer cabinet off. Yea! (Success #1)

When I check the motor coupling - am I just looking for it to be present and in one piece?

When you say bypass the lid switch - do you mean that I need to run the machine with the cabinet off???? There are a ton of little "Danger you'll kill yourself" signs. Just want to make sure I'm understanding you.

Also - there was a TON of dog hair between the inner rim of the drum and the outer rim of the drum, all caked on (GROSS!). Could that have been the problem???

Thanks again for the help and putting up with my questions.
K.D.

(so far so good - no blood, no cuts, and the washer seems to be OK too - no kick dents lol)


FORGOT TO ADD - there's easily 1/2" of water still in the drum. Is this indicative of a different problem, a secondary problem, or just par for the course?
Sorry so many questions. Thanks! K.D.
K.D.  
#5 Posted : Thursday, January 7, 2010 9:39:11 PM(UTC)
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K.D.

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OK - I'm back, with a bit of an update......

I got to the motor coupling. Other than being a bit dirty, all the pieces look fine. Would they be visibly broken (it in multiple little pieces?), or could it be that they are just worna bit. They were super easy to remove(don't know if that is indicative of anything).

Also - the water in the bottom of the drum is no longer an issue. It drained right out onto the floor when I removed the pump drive. Thankfully, I had a towel and a bowl nearby.

Thanks again for the help.
K.D.
Hatewashers  
#6 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2010 8:15:36 AM(UTC)
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Hatewashers

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I am experiencing the same problem, however mine will spin if I bypass the switch and give the tub a little help. It will also spin if there is a light or no load in the machine. A local tech told me its the clutch, but he also said that a clutch part was $200.00 dollars, not on this site. I am hoping the clutch replacement fixes the problem.
Hatewashers  
#7 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2010 8:17:09 AM(UTC)
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Hatewashers

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:confused:
Originally Posted by: Hatewashers Go to Quoted Post
I am experiencing the same problem, however mine will spin if I bypass the switch and give the tub a little help. It will also spin if there is a light or no load in the machine. A local tech told me its the clutch, but he also said that a clutch part was $200.00 dollars, not on this site. I am hoping the clutch replacement fixes the problem.
K.D.  
#8 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2010 12:27:01 PM(UTC)
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K.D.

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OK - After taking the night - I realized that in order to see the clutch moving I would have to have the dang machine ON. Sorry. See - this is why beginners should NOT try to repair things at 11:00pm. It's just not the smartest time. :p

Sadly, I only figured this out AFTER I had removed the gear case and clutch. Since I already had it out, I decided to look at it (might as well). All of the pieces matched up with the diagram nicely (I guess I didn't drop or lose anything) and all seemed to be in the proper shape. I could rotate the inside workings of the clutch easily clockwise, and it would also rotate counterclockwise, though it was stiffer and took more effort (but wasn't difficult).

Oh, and the brake assembly also looked like it was in working order. No random pieces falling off.

The only thing that looked a smidge damaged was the clutch band(?) It was a band like piece that stayed with the brake assembly and the larger piece of equipment, while the inner workings of the clutch seemed to come down with the gear box.

That band appeared to have a "pinched" section, as if a pair of pliers had been taken to it, squished it just enough to change it's shape, and then released. It did not appear to be cut or shredded.

(Boy I hope this makes sense and is even useful):rolleyes:

I then returned the gear case (complete with clutch workings sitting nicely ontop) to it's spot. Put the motor plate back, reassembled the motor grommets, and put the motor back on. I put the pumpp drive back on, complete with hoses attached.

At this point I then started the washer.
Filled fine. Agitated properly. And get this.... it SPUN! At a decent rate of speed, and the water drained like it's supposed to.

So now, my question is this.....is it fixed? Did it just need a nice "once-over" with a tightening of components? If so - GREAT!!! All I'm out is a day's worth of work (and honestly - I did it while the kids were sleeping, napping or at school - so I missed out on dishes, that's OK!)

Since the motor couplinig came off so easily - should I replace that part jstu to be on the safe side?

Pretty excited that it's working properly. I have yet to actually put a load in it - I'd prefer your advice first. I am a bit skeptic that it's too good to be true.
Your advice and knowledge is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
K.D.:)
K.D.  
#9 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2010 2:41:54 PM(UTC)
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K.D.

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:mad: OK - I put the cabinet back on, and now it's back to NOT SPINNING!!!!!

So where does this leave me know? With the descriptions of todays happenings in the above posts, and now this..... what's the next step?
Thanks.
K.D. (thoroughly confused at this point):confused:
Gene  
#10 Posted : Friday, January 8, 2010 3:43:26 PM(UTC)
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Gene

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...Also - there was a TON of dog hair between the inner rim of the drum and the outer rim of the drum, all caked on (GROSS!)...


Have you removed it?

Have you checked the pump and drain hoses for these stuff?

If your answer is "Yes", then most likely the problem solved.

Gene.
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