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I have a problem and from reading this board it can be one of 4 things.
It comes up with a heater failure on the test program and long cycle times as well.
My local dealer got me a copy of the wiring diagram and from it I think the control activates a relay that puts line current on terminal l2.7-2 a large red wire that goes in series to the high limit, heater and flow switch to the neutral wire in the junction box. I am assuming that the machine will run with this wire disconnected from the control and if so can I put an ohm meter on it to see if there is continuity or a very low ohms reading when the machine is running to the neutral wire. Looking at the diagram the flow switch is normally open and closes when the pump is running and putting water thru the heater. I am thinking this test would eliminate 3 of the 4 components all at the same time, the high limit, heater and flow switch. I could also check for voltage at the terminal on the control board as well. I am well versed in wiring and electrical safety so understand the dangers in testing live circuits and quite comfortable in doing this. What I am trying to avoid is buying a control on speculation and pulling the machine out from under the cabinet to check the individual parts if it is not necesary. Any advise you might have to offer would be appeciated.
Dave
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Hi Dave,
Most likely you can test all of these parts form the front of the dishwasher.
For more accurate advise we need the complete model number of the dishwasher.
Gene.
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As it says in the title
Bosch SHU5314UC/06
under than it has
FD7709 25 0036
Dave
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Ran it with the cover for the dor off and came up with a zero no errors and now washing running way too long again with the door cover off..
Dave
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Originally Posted by: ddahlgren  Ran it with the cover for the dor off and came up with a zero no errors and now washing running way too long again with the door cover off..
Dave OK finally got a chance to put a voltmeter on the control with it running. Started out at 120 volts and after the pump started went to 1 volt AC inthe circuit going to the heater and flow sensor. In my mind one of 2 things happened and do correct me if I am wrong.. Either the control can not provide enough current bad relay bad board etc though the board looks pristeen. Or the heater is shorted and draws that much current but that is very hard to believe I would have thought if would have poped a breaker. s a side note the Dw is on a GFI with the disposal but the disposal works just fine..I will hope for a reply to this or a suggestion as to what to buy to replace it.. Dave
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Hi Dave, Were you able to check for continuity across the Red wire l2.7-2 and neutral (the Red wire disconnected form the control module) while the circulation pump was running with water in the dishwasher? If there is nothing wrong (reading is about 11 Ohms) then the problem is a bad control module. No doubt about it. If the circuit is open then you have to remove the dishwasher and check every part separate: the heater, the water flow switch, the NTC (temperature sensor) and the hi-limit thermostat. Most likely the problem is a bad control module, especially it was most common problem for many years. - The part number for the control module is AP2802870 Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Hi Dave, Were you able to check for continuity across the Red wire l2.7-2 and neutral (the Red wire disconnected form the control module) while the circulation pump was running with water in the dishwasher? If there is nothing wrong (reading is about 11 Ohms) then the problem is a bad control module. No doubt about it. If the circuit is open then you have to remove the dishwasher and check every part separate: the heater, the water flow switch, the NTC (temperature sensor) and the hi-limit thermostat. Most likely the problem is a bad control module, especially it was most common problem for many years. - The part number for the control module is AP2802870 Gene. I resoldered every joint in sight and scrubed the contacts with a pencil eraser it is actually just ran 2 loads ahead of the displyed time needed.. So as you say the control no doubt but the length of of the repair working is the next question.. Dave
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