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fshman54  
#1 Posted : Monday, January 4, 2010 5:31:38 PM(UTC)
fshman54

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Joined: 1/3/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4

Denman, need some good tech assist. My kitchenaid has very long run times, dishes seem to come clean. Timed it tonite, did a "normal" & "energysave dry" started machine, after 4 mins digital reads 84 mins for cycle, that seems to be normal operation over the years. Approx 6 mins later shows 78 mins remaining, water at bottom of unit is approx 118 deg, water heat lite and sense soak lite is illuminated also. Approx 50 mins later, 78 mins still showing on display, and water heat lite and sinse soak lite is still on, checked temp in bottom of unit throughout this time, as high as 126 deg, avg 123 deg, my owners manual says that cycle should be 120 deg, so water temp seems correct? Water temp at faucet right next to machine comes out at 125 deg. Does the " water heat lite mean the unit is not seeing the water temp? Is there a water temp sensor that could be at fault? Control panel fault, any known problems like this. After reading alot of other threads, people are talking about a control head self test, is that applicable for this unit?You seem very knowledgeable in this area, any help greatly appreciated!! Thanks, Mike
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, January 5, 2010 7:06:57 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KUDS01DLBL2 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

Her is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208537797.pdf

checked temp in bottom of unit throughout this time, as high as 126 deg, avg 123 deg, my owners manual says that cycle should be 120 deg, so water temp seems correct?
See the tech sheet for the temperature set points for the different cycle types. Am not sure if the above indicates that it is heating the water but it is very slow. If it is heating up but very slowly could be the water level is low, this is probably a dirty filter screen on the input side of the water valve. Also the heater is controlled by a triac, if half the triac goes out or it only gets on-pulses for half the cycle you will only get half power to the heater. It would measure approximately 60 volts AC.

Water temp at faucet right next to machine comes out at 125 deg. Does the " water heat lite mean the unit is not seeing the water temp?

I believe it is indicating that the unit is trying to heat the water to the set point.

Is there a water temp sensor that could be at fault?
Possible but more likely a water heating problem.
You could try the diagnostics.
Remove power from the unit and one wire from the heating element and measure it, should be approximately 20 ohms.
If OK
Remove one wire from the thermostat and check it, should be 0 ohms.
IF OK
Replace the wires and do a live test.
Check the voltage across the heater when it should be heating, should be 120 volts.
If OK
Check the temperature sensor for resistance, see the tech sheet.

Control panel fault, any known problems like this.
Could be but there are other possibilities as listed above.

A jiggery pokery method for checking it, would be to add some boiling water during a fill, if it then skips merrily along you will know that the sensor is probably OK and it is a water heating problem. Just be careful not to overfill the unit.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
fshman54  
#3 Posted : Thursday, January 7, 2010 5:41:11 PM(UTC)
fshman54

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/3/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4

Denman,after doing some more evaluating of cycle times I think you are correct saying the water is not heating up correctly,seems to get stuck at the 78 min mark and the 42 min mark, same concern, water is not hot enough, it does finally heat up to approx 150 deg, the water heating lite goes out and the cycle continues. Water level is correct and I added boiling water as a test, only not enough. I am going to run different cycles to see what happens with that, before I pull unit out for component testing. I am a Ford tech by trade, have a good meter, and my neighbor is an electrician. Will use tech sheet you provided me with, and some more of what we call " streamed lined diagnois",,,,,,,,,,the boiling water trick! Thanks for the tech support, will post finding when I get to the bottom of this, thanks, Mike
fshman54  
#4 Posted : Monday, February 15, 2010 2:09:47 AM(UTC)
fshman54

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/3/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4

After lots of diag,checked power to element,ok, would also lite up an electric heater,if you powered up element externally would heat right up.you could hear relay cycle on and off, water level and switch ok, thermistor was reading correctly,ohms - temp. Finally decided to go for a control module, which came with a new element for a stainless inside. Then when I went to install, found a blown thermal fuse, must have happened on the last time we ran unit? So,new control module with element, $100 thermal fue kit $19 being able to fix your $800 dishwasher on your own, Priceless! thanks, Mike
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