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boselam  
#11 Posted : Saturday, January 2, 2010 6:57:46 AM(UTC)
boselam

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Joined: 12/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6

ctpbob88,

Thanks for sharing the information about the pins. Did you have to call the company to figure this one out?

I was starting to get worried since I was under the impression that the loose pin had created new problems with your washer but I guess it was the same problems as before (no agitation or spin).

In any case, good luck with your repairs. It sounds like you are going to have to tear into the washer a bit further but on the positive side it was pretty easy to get apart at least in my case.

Mike
cptbob88  
#12 Posted : Saturday, January 2, 2010 7:45:20 AM(UTC)
cptbob88

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I actually printed out the .pdf service training manual that someone had listed on one of these blogs and on my 3rd time thru reading it, saw the diagram with the yellow strap that you pull out when uncrating the washer and it had 2 cotter pins on it. Those are what go thru the little holes on the end of the pins.

I'm pulling my washer apart again, and checking the brake. I did have a large load in it when the coupler broke. But after replacing the coupler, it still won't spin or agitate. Motor runs to beat the band and the pump cycles water ok.
ryanj34  
#13 Posted : Wednesday, September 28, 2011 6:16:37 PM(UTC)
ryanj34

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Originally Posted by: boselam Go to Quoted Post
I pulled out the drive block and partly disassembled the brake to see the rollers. All I had to do was to take off the C clip and the plastic cam as shown in the photos.

One of the rollers (of the outer/primary brake show) was somewhat difficult to see but I could get a better view and could rotate both rollers by pressing in on the brake pads. Neither roller had ‘excessive play’ as best as I could assess. There was good contact between the shoes and the roller when the drive block was out but when I put I back inside the drum the brake pad were pushed back in towards eachother a bit such that the release arms of the shoes no longer contacted the rollers and the plastic c am had a bit of give (moving 30 degrees before contacting the rollers and releasing the backs) but I can’t imagine that this is a problem.

I have ordered a new clutch and will put it in early next week. My only remaining concern relates to the brass pin that fell out when I dropped the transmission as was mentioned in my earlier post. It is about two inches long and its shaft is flat on one side and rounded on the other with a hole at the end. It does not seem to fit in the end of the agitator spindle or the transmission. I have included a picture with this post. Any suggestions about where it belongs on the washer would be much appreciated.

Thanks and Happy New Year to others on the forum!

Mike



Mike, thanks for your photos. They are helping me with my job. I replaced the motor coupler two days ago. The same brass pin fellout of a short plastic tube mounted on the frame. I had the machine lying on its back. The plastic tube was just to the right of the tranny. I thought it might be a shear pin but it makes sense that it is a shipping pin.

Anyways, I just pulled the clutch out and am going to replace it next. AFter changing the coupler, it didn't seem to agitate during rinse and it began smoking lightly. There is a little oil on the top of the tranny which might be burning on the motor coupler. Hopefully the clutch will improve things.

john
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