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bobp  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, August 14, 2007 4:58:34 PM(UTC)
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bobp

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Joined: 8/14/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2

My 2 year old frig has the following symptoms. It works fine for a while, then the temps in both the frig and freezer rise to the 50's. The compressor is not on (but the condensor fan is running great.) If I unplug the uhit for two or three minutes and plug back in - the compressor starts up fine and cools the whole unit back down to where it should be. When the compressor then cycles off, it won't start back up - have to unplug and replug in.

There is a big circuit board on this model - is it that or could it be the compressor start relay?
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rbober2  
#2 Posted : Friday, December 11, 2009 10:35:21 AM(UTC)
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rbober2

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Joined: 12/11/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

My Refrigerator/Freezer has also started doing a similar thing with it operating properly for about 5 days, then both the Refrigerator and Freezer warming to about 46 degrees. I can unplug it for about an hour and everything will cool back down to normal temperatures and stay that way for another 4 or 5 days.
During the time that the refrigerator isn't running properly, the evaporator motor will start to run louder than usual and the compressor will not be running. I have good airflow, just not cold. I've read a number of posts and it almost sounds like a bad main control board, but I thought I'd ask anyway before ordering a new one. I don't have the clicking that everyone is talking so much about.

Info about the Refrigerator: Model # PTS25LHRCRWW, Serial # ZG306169

Any info would be helpful. Thanks
JohnCR437  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 6, 2010 11:32:25 AM(UTC)
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JohnCR437

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Joined: 4/6/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

I know the original post was months ago, but I've been having the same problem with my GE side-by-side refrigerator and will have it fixed by tomorrow. The original repairman that came out told us the freon had leaked out and the fridge was "toast." But a couple days later we plugged the fridge back into the wall socket and it ran as good as new. Two weeks later, the fridge warmed up again but the freezer still seemed to be working. I called back the repair service and said, essentially, "WTF!?!" After a couple hours of research online I gathered that the problem was a defrost issue and that it might be the motherboard, the thermistors/bi-metal thermostat, or the heater bar that needed replacing. Thankfully, the repair service sent out a more experienced tech and he nailed it in a few minutes. He pulled the entire white plastic back wall cover off the inside of the freezer. He had to remove the shelves and the drawer guides first. The coils were completed iced over. He said, "If I replace all of the components (the same ones I read about online and listed above) you will not have to call us back. But if I try replacing them one-by-one, I will be hearing from you again as each one wears out, etc." So, for $411 installed, with tax, and a one year warranty, my GE should be back in business. One other note: the tech said to make sure and use a surge protector for the fridge; it's no different than a computer or TV and is subject to voltage spikes." I know that I am replacing some parts that are still working, but the hassle of dealing with a broken fridge is not worth the pain of saving a little money. Each part the tech is replacing I found in one post or another as the culprit of this problem.
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