Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
jamer188  
#1 Posted : Friday, December 18, 2009 10:19:28 AM(UTC)
jamer188

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/18/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

This is a 25cf side/side GE fridge with digital temp controls on the freezer door where the ice maker is. Fridge stays at 52deg while the freezer stays at 38deg. It doesn't matter where I set the temp controls. This happened about 4 months ago, I took circuit board and overload protector off and remounted and it started working again. Well it just happened again with same temps so I ordered and put in a new circuit board, knowing GE has had problems with them. Nothing seems to have changed. Could it be the overload protector or run capacitor. I have a volt/ohm meter, is there a way to test the run capacitor and or overload protector? Also there is frost build up in the back of the freezer. It seems like the defrost cycle hasn't come on in awhile. Help anyone? Thanks
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
woodchuckie  
#2 Posted : Saturday, December 19, 2009 7:50:54 AM(UTC)
woodchuckie

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/10/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,363

DEFROST PROBLEM- Since you have replaced the board the problem is probably the heater or defrost thermostat.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
jamer188  
#3 Posted : Saturday, December 19, 2009 8:58:34 AM(UTC)
jamer188

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/18/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2

woodchuckie, You nailed it!! This morning I took the back panel off inside the freezer compartment and the coil was a solid block of ice. I thawed everything out. The defrost coil showed continuity. The defrost thermostat showed continuity when it was warm which you say it shouldn't, so I think this is the problem. I will order a new one. This also explains why 4 month ago I went thru this same problem and it started working again until now. It will work until the coil becomes a block of ice. Thanks for your help.
Users browsing this topic
Similar Topics
Kenmore elite refrig freezer and fridge too warm (Refrigerator & Freezer Repair)
by glizotte 4/1/2021 10:01:46 AM(UTC)
freezer and fridge too warm (Refrigerator & Freezer Repair)
by honolulublue 10/28/2012 6:22:06 PM(UTC)
Freezer and Fridge too warm (Refrigerator & Freezer Repair)
by RMattson 7/16/2008 2:38:28 PM(UTC)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.