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Whirlpool dryer won't start - all switches, fuse, thermostat OK
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My dryer was running fine on the humidity-sensor option, when I stopped it and removed the clothing. I loaded it with some new clothing and pushed the start button, but nothing happened. I have checked the thermal fuse, the thermostat, and the start button for continuity, and they all seem OK. The light still works. The controller sounds like a clock when I set it to a timed cycle, but the dryer won't start on any control setting. I cannot see any obvious problems with the small circuit board near the start switch. The exhaust pipe is fairly clean and does not seem to restrict flow. My next bet is the motor. Any other things I should check?
Drowning in laundry in Indy,
Bill
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER8857EQ2 | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203406699.pdfI have checked the thermal fuse, the thermostat I am assuming the one you checked was the one on the blower as your unit has 2 fuses. Also did you remove a wire from one side of it to ensure you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. The thermostat has nothing to do with the motor starting.
and the start button for continuity, and they all seem OK. When you checked this were you sure that you measured the contacts and not the relay winding?
The controller sounds like a clock when I set it to a timed cycle, but the dryer won't start on any control setting. Sounds like it is getting power but I would check the power into the unit just to be sure. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 240 volts Also check the terminal block in the unit to be sure a wire has not burned off. I cannot see any obvious problems with the small circuit board near the start switch. This varies the power to the timer so should not effect starting Start switch info: When you push the start switch it closes the contacts for the start. It also provides a circuit path through the relay coil which latches the contacts closed. Your start circuit path in timed dry is: Neutral , DOOR SWITCH , TIMER SWITCH 4 T/W , centrifugal switch , DRIVE MOTOR start & main windings , THERMAL FUSE , PUSH TO START RELAY contacts , TIMER CONTACT 1 BU/BK , L1 Put the unit in timed dry mid cycle. Attach one meter lead to L1 then work your way back through the components till you find the open. I am also assuming that the unit is not buzzing which is often a sign of a motor problem. |
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[COLOR="Green"]Thank you very much for your suggestions. I noticed that the large capacitor on the circuit board was bent at its leads, so I replaced it. I later read your reply, so I am not surprised that no improvement to starting occurred. Yes, I have removed at least one wire each time I've checked a switch, fuse, or thermostat. I have found only one fuse. This is the one down low, near the exhaust pipe. Can you point me to the other? The thermal cutoff at the top of the heater checks OK, as does the thermostat at the bottom of the heater. When I checked the start switch, I held my multimeter leads against the different prongs and pressed the switch. As for a buzzing sound, there is none; all is quiet except for the timer, which I can hear when I put my ear against it. Again, thanks for your help, and I'll follow the circuitry back per your list. [/COLOR]
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Fuses are:
Item 7 in Section 3 this one will kill power to the motor.
Item 9 in Section 3 this one kills power to the heater. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Fuses are:
Item 7 in Section 3 this one will kill power to the motor.
Item 9 in Section 3 this one kills power to the heater. [COLOR="Navy"]OK, I've got 120V from L1 to neutral and L2 to neutral and 240V from L1 to L2. I've removed the drum and tried to test the motor. I've removed the connector. At either end of the connector is a larger gauge red wire. The two largest terminals on the motor, which connect to the red wires, do not show connectivity. Does that indicate a faulty motor? Thanks again. Bill[/COLOR]
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Does that indicate a faulty motor?
No
The red wires probably go to one of the centrifugal switches.
This switch closes when the motor gets close to operating speed.
It then provides power to the heating coil and has nothing to do with starting/running the motor.
FYI: It is there to ensure that the coil does not heat up without air from the blower passing over it, as this would cause the heater to overheat.
The other centrifugal switch removes the motor's start winding from power.
If it is left in circuit while the motor is running it will cause the motor to overheat.
White to Blue should be approximately 2 ohms.
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I have now resolved the problem...with help from a used appliance shop. The timer, although its clock was still functioning (I could hear this when the power was connected), had burnt or worn through a contact. This prevented the dryer from starting. A new timer cost me $94. Thanks, again, for all your suggestions.
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You are welcome
Glad to hear you found the culprit. |
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Whirlpool dryer won't start - all switches, fuse, thermostat OK
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