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MC1  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, November 18, 2009 6:49:27 AM(UTC)
MC1

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My dryer quit working completely last week - no power whatsoever to console. I checked the circuit breaker, outlet voltage, thermal fuse, etc., with an ohmmeter and found proper voltage and continuity throughout.

I ran the tests I found on the Tech Sheet with my ohmmeter (all connections had continuity) and all roads lead to the User Interface Assembly. What I was wondering is how accurate this assessment is? Has anyone else had this problem?

I would really hate to spend the $120 on a new User Interface Assembly - non-returnable after it's been connected - only to find that it's the cable connecting the assembly to the main board or something similar. Can anyone help?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, November 18, 2009 5:36:21 PM(UTC)
denman

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I am including a tech sheet just in case it has more info than the one you are using
http://www.servicematters.com/d...heet%20-%20W10035270.pdf

With the unit plugged in and the User Interface unplugged.
Be very,very careful as 240 volts can be lethal

Check that P8-2 to ground is 0 ohms. Check it first using volts as you do not want to blow your meter.

P8-3 to P9-2 should be 115 VAC
P8-4 to P9-2 should be 115VAC with the door closed.
If not you may have a bad connection/wire

I am assuming that P5-8 is a common as it is marked +/- 12 VDC
P5-8 to P5-1 should be -12 VDC
P5-8 to P5-3 should be +12 VDC
They may be backwards as it depends on what type of logic they are using.
If either is missing then I would go for the control board first. Note I am assuming that the 12 volt supplies are on the control board but am not sure about this.

If all the above is OK then it is a crap shoot as either device can cause your problem.
Take a look around and see if you can find a supplier that will let you return the un-needed part.
Without specialized data logger equipment and info that is not available from the manufacturer you cannot troubleshoot any further.

Hopefully someone else will jump in who has lots of experience with these units and can guide you to the most likely.

You may want to try the following:
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

Also use the magnifying glass and look for cracked trails on the circuit boards and cold solder joints (often a gray color instead of silver or pin holes) Sometimes you can gently jiggle a component while looking at the soldered side and see the leg move in the solder.
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MC1  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, November 18, 2009 6:41:46 PM(UTC)
MC1

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I really appreciate the response!

I checked the connections you suggested and everything checks out. So, I'm going to flip a coin and hope it works! If the first doesn't work, I will try the second. Either way, since my wife's out of town, I've got a week to fix it.

Thanks again for the response!
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, November 19, 2009 1:49:52 AM(UTC)
denman

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Please get back to us and let us know how it went.

Your input may well help someone else with this problem.

Thanks in advance
denman
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MC1  
#5 Posted : Friday, November 20, 2009 1:46:53 PM(UTC)
MC1

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Denman,

Just a note to let you know the user interface assembly took care of it. It's working like a charm. Thanks for all your help!
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