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Guest  
#1 Posted : Saturday, June 8, 2024 9:00:21 AM(UTC)
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Model #PDT720SSH7SS, about 8 years old.

The top spray arm fell off during a wash cycle and got melted by the coil in the bottom of the dishwasher. I know I need a new spray arm (GE part# ap5989052) but now the water isn’t getting past luke warm during the cycle and there is residual water in the inside top of the dishwasher and in the drain sump after the drying cycle completes. The top is likely from the broken spray arm.

Can you help me diagnose these issues? Do I need to check the heating coil and drain pump?
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applianceaid1  
#2 Posted : Saturday, June 8, 2024 11:32:33 AM(UTC)
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applianceaid1

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Hi,

**The top spray arm fell off during a wash cycle and got melted by the coil in the bottom of the dishwasher**

https://www.appliancepar...d35x20794-ap5989052.html
Upper Spray Arm

**but now the water isn’t getting past luke warm during the cycle**

How is that being tested? How hot is the water coming out of the kitchen sink tap?
120F is min and closer to 140F is better.

** there is residual water in the inside top of the dishwasher**

Where, exactly?

**and in the drain sump after the drying cycle completes**

The sump should be full of water at the end of the cycle, even when no more water is coming out of the drain. The pumps are primed pumps and must be full of water all of the time.

**Do I need to check the heating coil and drain pump?**

If the d/w is draining, probably the drain pump is ok.
The heating element (power off and wires off of the element) should ohm at approx 16 ohms.

A copy:
Symptoms of a bad heating element include:

Dishes not drying properly
Dishwasher cycles taking longer than usual
Water not heating during the wash cycle
Error codes related to heating issues


I hope something here helps.

jeff sr.
Appliance Repair Aid
https://www.applianceaid.com/
thanks 1 user thanked applianceaid1 for this useful post.
AndrewVT on 6/9/2024(UTC)
AndrewVT  
#3 Posted : Sunday, June 9, 2024 6:58:30 AM(UTC)
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AndrewVT

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Thanks Jeff, I started this post but didn’t realize I wasn’t logged in for the initial post.

The water temperature was being tested by touching it both during the washing cycle and drying cycle. I also touched the heating element during both and it was not hot.

The water remaining was soapy water on the inside top (ceiling)of the dishwasher from the front to about 6” back into the dishwasher. My guess is this was caused by the melted spray arm.

I’ll pull the dishwasher and check the heating element resistance. Is it more common for the heating element to go bad or for the flood switch to be bad? Is there a way to test the flood switch as well?
applianceaid1  
#4 Posted : Monday, June 10, 2024 7:51:55 PM(UTC)
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**My guess is this was caused by the melted spray arm.**

A good possibility.

**Is it more common for the heating element to go bad or for the flood switch to be bad?**

For not heating...the element. The flood switch is responsible for detecting water levels in the dishwasher's base, preventing potential flooding by shutting off the water intake if an overflow is detected.

**Is there a way to test the flood switch as well?**

I found this, a copy:

The heater has a ohm value of 14.4 ohms. The flood switch should show no continuity unless the float is lifted.
I also found this video here.

jeff sr.
Appliance Repair Aid
https://www.applianceaid.com/
Md Maruf  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, June 11, 2024 10:11:40 AM(UTC)
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Md Maruf

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Alright, folks, let's dive into the nitty-gritty of our home appliances. Today, we're tackling a common headache – the GE Washer Not Draining and the water not heating up. Ugh, right? We've all been there. Imagine loading up your washer, only to find it sitting there like a stubborn mule, refusing to drain. And cold water? That's just adding insult to injury.

I've been down this road before, and it's no walk in the park. Picture this: a mountain of laundry and a washer that’s not cooperating. I felt like the universe was conspiring against my weekend plans. But don’t worry, we’re in this together. Let's fix this!

The Drainage Dilemma
First off, if your GE Profile washer isn’t draining, there are a few things you can check:

Check the Drain Hose: Sometimes, the hose gets kinked or clogged. Make sure it’s not twisted or blocked by any debris. Think of it like a garden hose; if it’s pinched, water can't flow.

Clean the Filter: Your washer has a filter that can get clogged with lint, coins, or even the occasional sock. Yep, those sneaky socks. Locate the filter (usually at the bottom front of the washer) and give it a good clean.

Pump Problems: If the hose and filter are clear, the issue might be with the pump itself. Listen for strange noises. If the pump is making weird sounds, it might need some TLC or even a replacement.

The Cold Water Woes
Now, onto the hot water issue. We all love a nice, warm wash, especially for those stubborn stains.

Check the Water Heater: Sometimes, the problem isn’t the washer but the water heater. Ensure your home’s water heater is working properly. It should be set to at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit.

Inspect the Temperature Setting: Make sure you’ve selected the right temperature setting on your washer. It’s easy to accidentally choose cold wash, especially when you’re in a hurry.

Heating Element: If everything else seems fine, the heating element inside the washer might be faulty. This part heats the water in the drum. If it’s not working, you’ll need a pro to take a look.

A Little Humor Helps
Dealing with these issues can be a drag, but hey, let’s keep our spirits up. Imagine your washer as a moody teenager. Sometimes, it just doesn’t want to cooperate. But with a little patience and know-how, we can get it back in line.

When to Call for Help
If you’ve tried all the above and your washer is still acting like a diva, it might be time to call in the experts. Remember, sometimes it's okay to admit defeat and let the pros handle it.

So, roll up your sleeves and tackle that GE Washer Not Draining issue. And next time, maybe it’ll decide to behave. After all, even washers have off days.
AndrewVT  
#6 Posted : Sunday, June 16, 2024 3:28:37 PM(UTC)
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I wanted to follow up on this post. I resistance tested the dishwasher’s heating coil and it passed around 16 ohms. So I bought a new upper sprayer and a float switch and replaced both. Dishwasher seems to be running correctly now but the heating coil is only about 100 degrees during the wash cycle tested by a food probe thermometer. That seems low to me. The hot water from our water heater is probably 120-130.

During the dry cycle, the heating coil is over 250-300 degrees.

Does it seem correct that the coil is not closer to 150 degrees during the wash cycle?
applianceaid1  
#7 Posted : Sunday, June 16, 2024 7:06:50 PM(UTC)
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applianceaid1

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**The hot water from our water heater is probably 120-130.**

For sure test the water at the kitchen tap.

**Does it seem correct that the coil is not closer to 150 degrees during the wash cycle?**

120-140ºF would be closer to normal. 160ºF for a sani-cycle.
Is the cycle and options actually selected so the d/w will heat up the water during the main wash?

jeff sr.
Appliance Repair Aid
https://www.applianceaid.com/
AndrewVT  
#8 Posted : Monday, June 17, 2024 6:14:08 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: applianceaid1 Go to Quoted Post

For sure test the water at the kitchen tap.

120-140ºF would be closer to normal. 160ºF for a sani-cycle.

Is the cycle and options actually selected so the d/w will heat up the water during the main wash cycle?


Water heater hot water from the tap is 129 with the same thermometer.

Yes the dishwasher was on the regular hot cycle. I’ll try the sanitize cycle to see the temperature. When during the sanitize cycle should the water be at maximum temperature? And should I run the sink for a minute to get hot water to the tap prior to starting the dishwasher cycle, or start with cold water?

applianceaid1  
#9 Posted : Monday, June 17, 2024 7:14:37 PM(UTC)
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applianceaid1

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**I’ll try the sanitize cycle to see the temperature.**

Good.

**And should I run the sink for a minute to get hot water to the tap prior to starting the dishwasher cycle, or start with cold water?**

You should always run the kitchen tap before starting a dishwasher cycle. I use to turn the kitchen tap on 1/2 way through a cycle to help insure the hottest possible water was available, but I was just being overly picky.

**When during the sanitize cycle should the water be at maximum temperature?**

Main wash and often the final rinse.

jeff sr.
Appliance Repair Aid
https://www.applianceaid.com/
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