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Mr.Petes  
#1 Posted : Friday, August 4, 2023 4:55:48 AM(UTC)
Mr.Petes

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/3/2023(UTC)
Posts: 0
United States
Location: AZ

Maytag Neptune 27 inch front load washer 
Model mah9700a 

It all started with a lumpy load. The towels clunked around so bad with the mattress pad that the thing stopped draining mid spin. That was a week ago.

I get diagnostic codes 1 (no drain) and 22 (door switch seen open during cycle:  door switch is read as open and the door locked switch is read as locked)

I have gone through the board input test and it does show correctly whether it's locked or unlocked. It does show correctly the water level. 

I have gone through the board output test cycles also. 

It will lock and unlock with no problem. 

It will run through all of the water inputs and correctly lock the door at those points. 

*It will not drain, seemingly because it unlocks as soon as the drain option is triggered. 

I have gotten it to drain twice, seemingly by tricking it with the "lock command" and then quickly selecting "drain" through the board output test sequence. This tells me the pump is good. Also has 120 volts at the pump and coming into the control board.

...So then I ran the Quick Service Cycle. It only went through step four, or maybe half of step five (out of 9), starting to Tumble. It stopped and did not fill the rest of the water level, and did not drain. 

The SC remained displayed, never did flash (as it should if there's an error) --and I left it for about 10 minutes waiting for it until it shut off. 

I started it again, and it did the same thing, and only displayed PA for "passed" once I triggered it to move on to the next part of the service cycle. 

It shouldn't do this. It should progress to the next cycle, and if it doesn't go through every part or won't do something (like drain !), then it should flash, giving an indicator that it didn't pass; but it doesn't.

It did not complete the Quick Service cycle. It did not indicate that it did not pass, which is confusing. 

So, does it need a new control board, or... ???

The unlocking and not draining seems like it might be indicative and definitive... but I'm just putting one foot in front of the other here. 

I did my best to test voltage and continuity at the control board. Seems to have voltage for locking (at the pin), but I'm unsure on the unlock pin. It's kind of hard to hold the multimeter in place and unlock at the same time, plus it wants to freak out every time it fails to lock or unlock as I have the connector unplugged to test it... 🙄

Thanks in advance for insight and diagnostic assistance.
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