Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
dman535  
#1 Posted : Sunday, July 31, 2022 7:14:31 AM(UTC)
dman535

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 0

The problem with the dishwasher is intermittent. It sound like its trying to fill, but there doesn't appear to be much water in it. The timer counts down and the cycle completes, but the dishes are not washed. I can manually add water to the unit and it seems to make a difference, I have also tried pushing hard on the door a few times before starting - might be placebo effect.

Given that the unit seems to think its functioning normally by completing a cycle, I am thinking its not a control board problem. Lack of water has me leaning towards water valve.

Any other thoughts? Here is a video of the unit when it is running:

Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
fredke  
#2 Posted : Monday, August 1, 2022 11:22:07 AM(UTC)
fredke

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/30/2022(UTC)
Posts: 0
United States
Location: UT

I will let you know if that is the problem as our WDF540PADM3 is doing the same thing.

Issue with our WDF540PADM3:
  • Water seems to fill to be ready for wash cycle (is never super full, barely getting to the base tub level/door flange), but the circulation pumps kick on fairly loudly on first burst for about 3/4 to 2 seconds, but immediately shuts off. Then the bursts are usually no more than .5 seconds for about 20 cycles. Some water somehow gets sprayed on the top dishes but the bottom and detergent door doesn't ever get sprayed enough to clean out the detergent bay (and no, not over filling in any way).
  • If the cycle is on the "normal" high temp, high dry, then it takes it own dang time doing sprays in spurts for a LONG time. But the 1 hour cycle never does much different on spraying the dishes.
  • My beautiful other half is a clean dish person and against the advice of the user manual has not only scrapped off the dishes, but basically washed them clean before putting them in the machine. Previous to this issue, it wasn't an issue as she always used the 1 hour cycle which according to the manual will run full bore, use all the water it can every time ignoring all the "normal" smartness (agree utter stupidity) of the many idiot sensors.
  • But now, nothing gets sprayed and thus nothing gets clean.



We have:
  • replaced the motor assembly circulation unit. (NO CHANGE)
  • I have checked the voltage on the control board, no fuses are open.

Diagnostic Cycle Results:
What is super frustrating is that the diagnostic readout for User Errors consistently says 4 - 3 meaning the motor is bad. We have already replaced the entire unit.
I have run the diagnostics many many times leaving it completely alone, and tried to clear the User Error at the right time pressing Hi Temp button right after the error display segments, and have never felt it cleared anything really.
Initially the Service Errors AND User Errors would flag the motor 4 - 3 and the 7 - 1 heating element, but after trying to clear the User Errors there are 0 Service Errors shown now after completing the full uninterrupted diagnostic program and User Errors now just reads 4 - 3.
All of the segments do seem to do the proper engagements of each system as the circulation pumps also engage as they do briefly just as in a regular wash cycle.
This shows that both fuses are open, and I have checked them with an ohm meter as well. It starts off .3 dropping to .2 and .1 and then 0 resistance.

The water level never really reaches up to even move the overflow float, and I have live checked the overflow switch to see that manually engaging it while filling cycle stops when it's triggered. It functions as expected - the flow immediately stops.

So, there seems to me to be the only remaining possible issues:

  1. Wiring connection issue between Control board and Pump connector
  2. Inlet Valve is partially blocked (we have horrible hard water)
  3. Possibly something bad with the turbidity sensor.
  4. And who knows, maybe the ground connection is losing it's strength?? It's hard wired to the electrical circuit.


My hunch is on Inlet Valve, with possibly an assist by wiring connection issue.
I don't know how to "clean" one of the tiny wiring connection prongs as has been mentioned by another post. If anyone has some details on that I would be much obliged.

But I agree due to the "environmental" tree huggers pressure on these makers these systems are FAR over complicated. My wife tries innately to bypass the green clean waste your life and time cycles anyways. If those CEO's and board members think women are stupid, ... they don't have their heads on straight, in putting in all of the sensor crap to reduce a gallon of water use. I can clearly say my wife is PISSED OFF completely now that we have spent 2 weeks trying to repair this piece of crap marvel of conservation. She has just about lost it and I can see why. We have a larger household of 6 people and NEED a working DW for heavens sakes!!!

SO folks, please please give me ideas. i like to keep on living, but if the valve (which arrives tomorrow) doesn't fix this, I might not ever be replying on this post again.
dman535  
#3 Posted : Monday, August 1, 2022 7:09:41 PM(UTC)
dman535

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/9/2011(UTC)
Posts: 0

I ran diagnostics and got an F2E1 and a F6E4 code out of the machine. Checked the water inlet valve, its wasn't clogged and seem to be flowing well.
Left power off for about 10 minutes - trying another wash cycle now - will see what happens and if the same codes are there when its done.
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.