Over the course of about a year the ice and or water dispenser in this refrigerator began working intermittently. Until a few weeks ago the ice maker continued to function normally. Finally, we could not select the type of ice (crushed or cubed), control the light (auto, on or off), lock or unlock the functions, or determine the remaining life of the filter--ie the user interface (U/I) was inoperative.

First I did the easy stuff:

Trip the circuit breaker or unplug the frig so as not to electrocute yourself or fry the electronic components.

The dispensers do not function with the freezer door open, so you must determine that the door switch is OK. You can just crack the door open and peek inside; when you see the light illuminate or go off by moving the door barely open to more open, the switch is good.

I removed the trim and removed the assembly for the dispenser and verified that the switches for each dispenser were good using an ohm meter (inexpensive, it is really a multimeter with ohms selected; don't leave it in ohms when not in use or you'll deplete the battery).

I sequentially removed and replaced the canon plugs (the devices that connect multiple wires) to the user interface or U/I--the assembly that you touch to control dispenser functions. Re-seating these connections often restores connectivity, especially considering the amount of moisture that can cause oxidation to the contacts.

I went on line and ordered the dispenser control board; these are available used, so I did this due to relatively low cost. The replacement did not solve my problem.

I ordered a new U/I, or user interface. This "touch screen" assembly uses capacitance sensors to literally act as switches to control the dispenser functions. Virtually everything I read indicated this would resolve the problem. It did not.

At this point I called an appliance repair company. As the son of an appliance repairman, I know far more than the average consumer. However, absent the test equipment or detailed troubleshooting instructions from the manufacturer, at this point I'd done as much as I could do.

The gent who arrived was well above average in terms of understanding complex systems as well as having a background in electronics beyond running a built in test (BIT) and changing parts. However, HE WAS NOT A FACTORY AUTHORIZED TECHNICIAN. Still, we were able to determine that the electrical feeds to the various U/I components were inconsistent and quite low, at voltages that were odd: 7.8v here, 8.9v there, etc. Typically voltages are 12, 24, 110, etc. We determined that the leads from above and below the door were conducting normally. We disconnected and reseated all cannon plugs above and below the door that were electrically relevant to the door. At this point we both agreed that one of the electronic control boards above the refrigerator was likely the culprit.
We replaced all components, put everything back together and reset the CB so the refrigerator and freezer could continue to function. I paid the technician, and even though he hadn't fixed my problem he helped me troubleshoot some more. If you're still with me, make certain that if you have a problem such as this that you call a FACTORY AUTHORIZED REPAIR TECHNICIAN for service. That individual will more accurately be able to asses the situation and PROBABLY order the part. If you're able to do what I've done, then go online and order used control boards because you will likely have to buy several you don't really need to find the inoperative board. The better solution unless you're very handy is to call the FACTORY AUTHORIZED REPAIR TECHNICIAN.

I ordered both boards; the main board, WP2318054, arrived first. I again tripped the C/B, and took the grill above the unit off. You must do quite a bit of disassembly to get at the control board. Take a picture of the assembly before you start removing things, and possibly label or mark the connectors using a Sharpie. Again, make sure, as you disconnect the cannon plugs that you know which goes where. There are two that each have three leads that you could mix up. There are four nylon connectors, one at each corner of the board, that hold it in place. These are a bit difficult to deal with. I used a pair of long nose pliers and a long, slender screw driver to ultimately remove the board. BE PATIENT so you don't damage anything.

Making sure I first touched the refrigerator metal housing for the boards in order to discharge any static electricity before handling the board, I replaced the new (used) board. I re-attached all cannon plugs but did not put the replacement board into the 4 nylon connectors; I wanted to insure functionality before permanently attaching it in place, as it is so difficult to remove. I reset the C/B and VOILA!!! My dispensers work beautifully, and so does my ice maker. I once again tripped the C/B and attached the control board at each of the 4 nylon posts, re-assembled all parts I'd removed, and restored full functionality to my refrigerator.

Using 20/20 HINDSIGHT, I'd start this project by first calling the factory authorized Whirlpool appliance repair service. I'm not short changing my accomplishment, but I've messed around with this headache for six weeks. If you're dealing with a $1000 refrigerator that's out of warranty, it may be prudent to buy a new one and get the extended warranty from Lowes or where ever for an extra $100. These electronic components are expensive to troubleshoot and repair. If, like mine, your refrigerator would cost $8500 or more to replace, and you'd still have to remove and replace the cabinetry from the old unit to the new (a lengthy endeavor), then you are well motivated to spend the money to repair it. Accurately diagnosed, this repair would have cost perhaps $600. As cheap as I am, I would have gladly paid that to have saved myself the angst and inconvenience of screwing with this mess for the past year, when you look at where and when my problems first arose. At this point in my life I still change fuses, reset C/Bs, and do basic trouble shooting. However, these computers and control boards that have invaded our lives are best left to those with the tools and training to deal with. That said, make sure the people you invite into your home to accomplish this for you come well recommended. Without ratings in the 4.5 range or above from lots of people, I tend not to use a contractor. When I have, I've regretted it.