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finzidad  
#1 Posted : Saturday, December 15, 2018 6:30:18 PM(UTC)
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finzidad

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Joined: 12/15/2018(UTC)
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United States
Location: Bucks COunty, PA

Error code: F9E0 ("Product not wired correctly")

Electric Burning odor, then loud "buzzing/whirring" sound when CANCEL to shut off.

Kitchenaid Double 30" wall ovens, model KODE307ESS00
Installed/New about 3 years ago


Ok, so my wife's doing Christmas baking and had the top oven on for about 4 hours. She called me into the kitchen and said she smelled an electrical odor. I could barely smell it, but told her to turn the oven off (CANCEL on the upper oven) as I ran to the cellar to throw the break off on my subpanel. As I was going down, she said she hear a loud "buzzing/whirring" sound that she claimed wasn't the fan.

Next, I inspected all cabling... behind the cabinet drawer under the ovens and in the cellar coming out of the subpanel. All cables looked normal and felt cool to the touch. Their was no sign of them having been overloaded.

I then turned the breaker back on and tried to set the top oven to 350F... and got the F9E0 error code. It was the same when I tried the lower oven... so whatever the problem is, it is affecting both ovens. (So... NOT either of the control boards?) I tried this a few times--same error.

I then shut off the breaker for safety.

I should say that I've been doing my own electrical work for over 40 years... this was a neat, clean install. Large junction box installed behind the oven... large wire nuts used to make connections (very tight)... cables secured all throughout the run.


All the electronics in this model are above the top oven and it seems that any repairs must be done by uninstalling the ovens from the cabinet. Which is my hellish problem... it's installed about 2" from a wall and window with a radiator under the window that is about 6" taller than the bottom of the lower oven. What a pain this will be for a repairman!

Advice... any ideas on what component it could be?


New info:

The oven's breaker has been shut for over an hour...

I just turned on the breaker again so I could run the diagnostics (CANCEL+CANCEL=START) to see if there were any other error codes in its memory that we missed previously (there aren't). I then turned on the upper oven to 350F and to my surprise the error didn't show up... it continued to preheat for a couple of minutes. I tried the same on the lower oven--no error.

Could it be that the thermal fuse might have somehow melted and caused a short which might have caused the F9E0 error? (If so, this would be a simpler repair since I'd only have to slide the unit out a few inches to get to it. (I'm hoping for something simple, I know!)

Still, I'm not going to use it until I know for certain it's safe.


Any ideas?
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finzidad  
#2 Posted : Sunday, December 16, 2018 11:36:39 AM(UTC)
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finzidad

Rank: Member

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Joined: 12/15/2018(UTC)
Posts: 0
United States
Location: Bucks COunty, PA

Originally Posted by: ohm Go to Quoted Post
Try this! NOTE: Before starting any test, cycle power to the oven
(power Off, wait 10 seconds, and power On).
PROCEDURE: Before proceeding, verify the error code by pressing CANCEL>CANCEL>START to enter the Diagnostics Mode, and then pressing the “3” or “6” key to scroll to the Faults screen.
1. Unplug oven or disconnect power.
2. Access the electrical wiring from the house power
supply to the oven.
3. Check house wiring to the product. Check to see if the neutral connection is switched with L1 or L2 (refer to the installation instructions for product wiring).
4. Replace any parts and panels before operating.
5. Plug in oven or reconnect power.
6. Verify operation is normal by run a cooking function. Re-enter the Diagnostics Mode and remove error code.



Yesterday when the oven was still hot (remember, my wife was running it for 4 hours straight) I still got the F9E0 error after shutting it down for a while, then powering it back up.

I did check the diagnostic error memory yesterday and only the current F9E0 error was listed. The voltage checked fine also.

As for the house wiring, all seems fine. As I said, the thing has been running fine since its installation. I can't easily pull the unit due to the proximity to the radiator... I'm a strong guy and had a helper when installing, but think how difficult it was that we couldn't simply slide it in level... we had to lift the darned unit up and over the radiator then TILT it so the rear bottom edge could fit into the bottom of the cabinet opening. I'm dreading if I have to pull it just to check cabling behind the unit.... I did check the cabling from the breaker to just underneath the unit (where I can see the cable coming up through the rear of the cabinet via a drawer under the ovens).

Today I tried a test that proved I'm getting power: I flipped the breaker on at the sub-panel then fired up one of the ovens (the same top one my wife was using) and kept it on at 350F for an hour. No electrical odor, no error message. It seems it's getting power normally and the thermostat is functioning.

This is why I was wondering if the F9E0 code was a mistake and it's something else, like the thermal fuse... or simply a glitch caused by the oven being on for 4 hours (although that's to be expected for lots of types of baking... turkey, hams, etc.)

I was thinking of at least pulling the unit out as far as I can (just measured - 17") by sliding it forward to check wiring and components behind the interface.
finzidad  
#3 Posted : Monday, December 17, 2018 8:27:13 AM(UTC)
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finzidad

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2018(UTC)
Posts: 0
United States
Location: Bucks COunty, PA

ohm...

I'm thinking it was some sort of glitch. And thanks for the link but I did have the service tech booklet with the same info.

This morning I pulled the ovens our enough to access the panel and control boards. I did a visual inspection and couldn't find any melted/damaged components or melted/burned cables.

I could also see into the back top corner of the cabinet where I mounted my junction box... the feed to it looks perfect--just like the day I installed it. No heat or burn marks on or around the box. The metal shielded cable that connects the unit to my power also looked pristine... no melting or carbon marks around the shielding.

The thermal fuse looked fine. A real mystery. Everything looks like new in there.


??
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