Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 2
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The timer was going bad and only working on the "auto-dry" setting, but it wouldn't end the cycle. We had to manually time it and stop the load by hand. I replaced the switch and then the dryer didn't work at all. I swapped the new switch back out for the old one. The dryer still wouldn't work.
The belt is whole, and there is no humming coming from the motor. I tested the "push-button" power switch and it passed.
I tested the upper-most thermal fuse and it had zero continuity. I replaced the thermal fuse.
Now the start switch causes an audible "click" when pressed. The element begins to glow and heat up, but the drum/blower motor never starts no matter which setting I use on the switch. There is no hum nor obvious failures in the electronics up to the motor, however, I'm not sure if I want to test a powered 30A/220v motor myself (I'm a wimp with electricity).
Is there anything else I'm missing?
Thanks!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395 Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
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If the motor is not turning the element shouldn't be able to get hot. There is a centrifugal switch on the motor that switches it from start to run and at the same time completes the circuit to the element. The motor has to be spinning to do this. You need a motor. Whirlpool 279827 Dryer Drive Motor - AppliancePartsPros.com
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 2
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So if there is a centrifugal switch that needs to be closed before the element will heat, then how is the element getting hot without the motor turning? Or is that how you know it’s the motor- because a properly working one wouldn’t allow that to happen?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,395 Location: near the middle of nowhere Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: Yerocsemaj You know it’s the motor- because a properly working one wouldn’t allow that to happen. Exactly! Bad motor start switch.
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