Freezer side is not working, also ice maker not working as well. - Appliance Repair Forum

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Model: RS2556SH	Brand: Samsung	Age: More than 10 years
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dokotak		#1 Posted : Tuesday, July 11, 2017 9:25:06 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 7/11/2017(UTC) Posts: 1		freezer side not cooling and also ice maker is not working as well on the side by side (samsung rs2556sh). Refrigerator side works fine. the door on the freezer side left slightly open for a long time, after that the freeze side is not working. I reset by unplugging and plugged back in after few hours and it is still not working. I unplugged the refrigerator for a day to melt any ice in the evaporator. also, did self diagnostic by pressing power cool and power freeze at the same time, after the diagnostic, it is showing solid line (not blinking) dash line that would indicate the evaporator fan problem. I opened up the panel to evaluate the evaporator fan in the freezer side. It was not turning so that I took it out the fan and connected to 9 V battery directly. When it is connected to the battery, it was turning fine. I also check the voltage level on the connector on the freezer where the fan is connected, there was no voltage with power on the refrigerator. I put the fan back in the freezer. I also noticed that Ice maker is not working as well. Now, I suspect, it is either temperature sensor or the control pcb board issue. but, would like to get opinion before I take all part out to get the the sensor. Can the sensor cause ice maker to not working as well as the cooling the freezer side? Need some help on what shall I do now.


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PNWDrew		#2 Posted : Wednesday, July 12, 2017 10:11:32 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 2/2/2017(UTC) Posts: 422		The icemaker is dependent on the freezer temp so a warm freezer = no ice. I'd pull whole rear wall off to expose the evaporator, with the compressor running more that 15 minutes you should be getting nice and frosty all over it. If not take a pic of your frost pattern and post back. The thermistor on the bottom of IM can cause weird temp issues, those flex tray IMs can damage the wiring to it and the machine gets faulty or erratic readings. The 9 volt test isn't reliable as the evap motor is a PWM fan that sends a feedback signal (about 5vdc on two of the wires) to the PCB, also with the door open it may not power it at all. Also if I recall correctly the PCB will not turn that fan on until the evap is cold so the thermistor on the top of the evap may be faulty. Those are a few ideas off the top of my head. Thermistors are testable, but also cheap, IM's not so much. See if you have a healthy frost pattern and post back.


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