Initially we noticed things weren't quite as frozen as they should be and I trouble shot to a bad inverter, compressor not running but supply and control voltage present (I only saw saw 4VDC when disconnect-I believe it's supposed to go up to 12VDC which is what I'd expect when everything was as warm as it was).

I ordered a new one but was sent the wrong part, while waiting for new part I decided to inspect the old inverter and immediately found it had bad capacitors so I replaced them and tested it out in the fridge. Compressor started working again, cooled both compartments down set temps (according to control panel). Later that night I noticed the freezer went up 9F before compressor kicked back on, in the morning it was back at 0F. Later on I noticed the freezer warmer again and I'd only hear the compressor kick on a for a short time (several sec) or if I opened the freeze door(once for food compartment door) it would kick on (it's seems to only intermittently do that now). It seems to currently be maintaining food compartment temp and freezer slightly less (sometimes bellow freezing sometimes as high as food compartment).

I'm not sure if the inverter is 100% fine but since I'm currently only seeing .25 VDC control voltage right now while the freezer is at 36F it leads to think the control board is now/also bad. I've left my meter on min/max and wating until I hear the compressor kick on again (opening doors isn't working right now-while it did just prior to putting the meter on it).

All other fans, lights seem to be working normally. If I push the freezer door switch the fan kicks on high (I assume this is normal).

Aside from the control board being faultly is there anything else on these models that would prevent it from sending the control signal to the inverter or any other things I should check? If it is the control board which one should I order or is simple enough to pull out just to check the part number(I'd prefer to keep it running for now since it's at least maintaining good enough temp)?

Well after letting my fridge fully cool temp difference between the display and actual temp is much closer. Actually if I check it in the meat keeper it matches, it's a degrees warmer on the shelf above it but still about 10F warmer on the top shelf. So I'm thinking the temp sensor must be in the supply duct to the fresh food side and it's working close properly.

My extra ice function also started working again, noticed that after changing my ice-marker that I was only getting about have as much ice as before(I always hit the extra ice if I empty it, which is any day I have to go see customers) but I guess the feature wasn't working because I was already starting to have issues with my inverter and/or main board. I thought it was just the temp sensor was off from my previous 2 ice-markers but I think it just wasn't lower my freezer temp -5f (I assume this is how it makes it make more as my freezer temp is lower right, I never had checked prior to recently as I never had a need).

Anyway I think I'll just order a new main board even though things seems to be working fine. I'm pretty sure I should have been seeing closer to 5v going to my inverter when I first powered it after repairing the traces since everything was pretty warm by that time plus I already saw it was up at 4v when I first checked the inverter.

I guess receiving the wrong inverter was a blessing in disguise since I was able to repair it (I wasn't even going to bother to try even though I was pretty sure I could), so at least I can save some money for that part.

I find it odd that I had to traces that corroded since there was no signs of water getting on the board and I live in a dry area. I'm guess the one that got totally broken by the time I took it is related to the signal voltage to the inverter (I didn't bother trying to figure out were it went) and maybe I didn't get a good solder on my repair but I'm not going to bother to see if I can improve it and just wait for the new to mess with anything on the fridge since it's keeping things cold now.