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Joined: 6/7/2017(UTC)
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Have a Frigidaire freezer about 10 years old. Several days ago after an electrical storm found the freezer with a burnt capacitor & controller. Not sure if the storm was the cause of them burning out, since none of our digital clocks were affected as the usually are. After replacing both parts the light, fan and compressor will both come one, but the compressor kicks off after about 3 seconds.
Checked the ohms between the pins on the compressor and they read 3.3, 3.3 and 6.5. And there is 120v to the capacitor. Tested the thermostat which seems to be working, turning the fan and compressor on. The temp. sensor inside has good continuity. The defrost timer also seems to be working, turning the fan and compressor on and off.
One thing I did try is using a spare cord going directly to the capacitor and controller, bypassing the wiring harness. Doing this allows the compressor to start and run just fine. It will run continuously without overheating, and you can feel the freezer cooling. The controller at the capacitor doesn’t overheat, switching off the compressor. The LRa on the compressor is 14.5 on start-up with the bypass, building to around 13. But when I remove the bypass cord and run electricity through the harness, the controller overheats and shuts off the compressor.
I know the freezer is getting older, but it’s clean, never had a problem with cob webs or dirt, and it’s always worked great. Hate to give up on it just yet. Hope someone can give me some hints and help me salvage it for a bit longer.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/2/2017(UTC)
Posts: 422
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So you replaced #30 and #55 on this diagram already? Parts for Frigidaire FFU20FC6AW5: System Parts - AppliancePartsPros.comDid you replace the white and black overload that fits into the control when you did it? Your symptoms are kind of a jumble, kudos on trying to power the comp by itself, few people go that far. The three pins on the compressor are the 2 windings of the motor inside it. Start and run windings. It's been a while since theory class but if I recall correctly the lower pin is usually neutral. This is a panasonic comp I think but pin layout is probably same. As a rule of thumb you should get 3 different ohm readings between them when tested in pairs. The lowest is the run winding, the middle is the start winding and the highest should be roughly the sum of the other 2. The readings you give look like you have a bad winding. There are hard start kits that give an extra kick and can revive compressors, but I have little experience with them as my employer does not allow us to use them. Allow it to sit unplugged for 1 hr, this allows pressures to equalize between high and low pressure sides. That should allow the compressor it's easiest start possible. If it continues to overload and shut down check amp draw on the factory harness to the compressor, on either side of the power. It's possible the terminals in the defrost timer are burnt or making bad contact and the compressor can't draw enough power through it, causing it to overload. It's possible you have a bad compressor; although it running normally with direct power is odd assuming the overload is new. The defrost timer is cheap, if nothing else you may want to try it before junking the unit.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/7/2017(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Thanks for the reply. Yes, I did replace both items. Checked the amps with a digital meter and it read below the LRa posted on the compressor, but don't have a clamp meter for best test. I did check between the pins, and the sum of the 2 lowest readings equals the 3rd reading, which I've been advise is correct. I don't want to use a hard start kit due to the heat being generated in the new controller. That's what I can't figure out. When I bypass every thing else and go directly to the capacitor and controller with a power cord, the capacitor, controller and compressor stay cool and it runs just fine. I am wondering if, as you said, there isn't something else like the timer causing the compressor to demand excess current. The timer still works but gues it could be causing a problem. I'll investigate a new timer and see if I can't borrow a clamp meter. Thanks
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