Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2017(UTC) Posts: 1
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My problem started with a blown thermal fuse. Which I replaced along with the high limit thermostat. When the fuse went again I decided to look a little closer at my discharge temp at the outlet of the dryer which was a little high at about 168, but I noticed the mother was slowing to almost a stop. So I assumed that after a few loads the motor it may have slowed enough to cause the heat to back up.....so I replaced the motor and the cycling thermostat just for good measure. When I rechecked the temperature I found that even though the motor was running very fast with no change in speed my exhaust temp still was 167-174 and that was on all three temp settings. Since then I have put a temp selector switch,a heating element and another cycling thermostat in. No change. The voltage to the cycling therm heater are: high temp-0volts, med temp-100volts, low temp-119 volts. I know there aren't many parts left. But would really appreciate some advice. Currently have the fuse jumped out and don't want to hook it up until something changes on my temps... thanks
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/2/2017(UTC) Posts: 422
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The element should be cycling on and off to control the temps. The setting is the average over time and even when working well in those it might allow the temp to drop to 100 on low and 120 on high, not much difference. The peaks will be similar no matter what you select. Also I would not consider 170F at the outlet to be very hot. That thermal fuse opens at 91 C, sustained for several minutes, about 195 deg. By far the most common reason for thermal fuse trips is airflow out of the house. Sometimes they just fail but I change 6 or more per week for airflow issues.
I'm not sure what you mean when you say the motor slowed almost to a stop.
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