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Ok Iv'e read all the post about this. On mine, the igniter will light and then the burner comes on for less then a minute. When the igniter comes on I hear the coils click and then the burner light's but then I hear another click and the flame goes out. I replaced the coils and the thermal cut off. I tested the flame sensor also. It still will not stay lit for more then a minute. I read some place that the electronic board can cause this, so I purchased a used board and it still is doing it. The question I have is when the flame lights and I hear that second click, is that the gas valve going shut?
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There's a few options. Empty with good airflow the machine will cycle rather rapidly. 1 minute of flame per ignition isn't odd in those conditions. The flame will not remain on continuously, ever. With a wet cold load it may burn for several minutes. It burns until either the thermistor in the blower housing tells the computer it's hot enough or the thermostat on the burner opens. Whichever it is, it then cools down before restarting, temps cycle up and down through the run. Poor airflow is one likely possibility. The thermostat next to thermal cut off will cut power to the coils when it gets hot and opens. When it cools it will reset and the ignition cycle will start again. Poor airflow causes the burner funnel to get very hot and the thermostat responds to that. Start the unit and let it run, go outside to the vent outlet and make sure a good amount of air is moving through the vent. If not disconnect the vent and run the machine, but open a window or provide other ventilation. The exhaust isn't good to breathe in for very long. If the machine heats normally you have a vent issue in the house. #36 on the diagram Parts for Maytag MGDB400VQ0: Bulkhead Parts - AppliancePartsPros.comA second less likely option is the thermistor on the blower housing. #2 on the same diagram. If the computer thinks it is hot enough the computer will be turning the burner on and off instead of the thermostat on the burner. That is assuming good airflow. Ideally the computer controls the heat. On the burner side the mechanical thermostat (self resetting) is the next level of temp control, followed by the thermal cut off (one time event, doesn't reset). There is also a thermal fuse on the blower housing that kills the motor.
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This is somewhat helpful; I have the same problem with my kenmore elite HE3 (11092826102). Flame keeps shutting off so dryer cycle takes forever and still doesn't get clothes completely dry. A this point I think I've replaced everything but the computer board:
coils, gas valve, ignitor, flame sensor, high limit switch, thermistor, event the moisture sensor bars. Not sure what else it could be. Air flow path is clean and exhaust flow is strong (but never gets hot).
Advise?
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: ggarnett  This is somewhat helpful; I have the same problem with my kenmore elite HE3 (11092826102). Flame keeps shutting off so dryer cycle takes forever and still doesn't get clothes completely dry. A this point I think I've replaced everything but the computer board:
coils, gas valve, ignitor, flame sensor, high limit switch, thermistor, event the moisture sensor bars. Not sure what else it could be. Air flow path is clean and exhaust flow is strong (but never gets hot).
Advise? Wow you've spent some $ in parts on that one! Leave bottom panel off when you run it and see if flame is escaping the "spoon" (flame spreader) and a jet of it is shooting up near the thermostat. The spoon looks exactly like an upside down spoon and is the piece the flame hits as it first become visible to spread it out. From your view you'll be able to see the back of it next to the ignitor. You may also be able to see that the metal around the hi limit thermostat is discolored from being very hot if it is getting hit. No significant amount of flame should be happening on either side the spoon. If it is disconnect the vent to run it open briefly and see if you get a significant change in flame pattern. Whirlpool WP693140 Burner Tube - AppliancePartsPros.com In this pic it is upside down compared to it's position in your dryer. If not an obvious flame issue you'll need a multimeter to determine whether the computer is turning it off or the high limit is opening to easily proceed. The high limit thermostat makes a distinct noise but it is hard to isolate as the valve closing simultaneously also makes a noise.
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OK, update: since I bought the control board, I decided to install it when it showed up. In the meantime, I checked the dryer exhaust path again, made sure that there were no kinks in the hose and looked at the flame with the exhaust disconnected. Again no problems with the exhaust path and no difference in the flame with the hose disconnected that I could discern. Good flow coming out of the exhaust pro out side the house. Just very little heat.
Installed the new control board. No difference. I'm ready to cry. Just for Ss and Gs I checked the valve coils again. Correct resistance on all contacts on both coils.
I inspected the flame housing near the high limit thermostat. It did show signs of heat discoloration, but I'not sure if this was from a previous owner or not. The flames spilling out of the spoon didn't really seem significant - it actually seemed like there was more spilling out on the ignitor side, but overall the flame seemed to be streaming up into the dryer just fine. Not very much spillage, although I have noting to compare it to.
Just to check on the flame spillage, I used my laser infrared themometer to see how hot the underside of the high limit thermostat was getting before it turned off. It was between 79 and 100 degrees each time. Isn't it supposed to be like 230? It's a brand new one anyway.
I'm at a loss. I guess I could remove the high limit thermostat from it's mounting place to further away and see if the flame stays on. If it does, there's either an issue with the high limit thermostat or there is too much flame spillage and my thermometer doesn't work right. OK if it's the latter, then there's some flow problem I have not identified. Is it possible that the dryer drum seals are so leaky that they are not drawing enough vacuum flow through the ignition tube?
Love some more advice...
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Rank: Member
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figured it out!
PNWdrew was right, it was an air flow problem (but not ducting or lint). So I kept looking around in and around the burner funnel tube (prompted by my wife who asked if I had installed something wrong), and I found the problem:
The funnel had somehow come out of the orifice where it goes into the dryer to heat the drum and so it was slightly misaligned. Which meant the airflow was wrong and the vacuum was slightly reduced in the flame funnel. It must have come ajar during the move? Hope this helps someone else since this is probably uncommon.
So far it seems to be working well - flame stays on. Thanks PNWDrew!
G
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