Your model number isn't working for me.

Yes, the valve could be the problem, there might be a thermal cutout/fuse that went out too.

I'd put the ignitor back in circuit. turn the oven to bake and see if the ignitor glows. If it doesn't, I'd check the voltage to it. It should be 120 volts AC. (I know you said you measured 65V)

The power comes in from the cord, goes through the thermostat, thermal fuse (if there is one) through the ignitor, then through the gas valve and back to the cord.

Its a series circuit. A break or bad connection anywhere will stop it. The parts might not be wired exactly like I described it, but you get the idea.

So if the power is partly or completely missing, you need to find where its not getting through.

Unplug you range and take the wires off the gas valve. Put your test probes across the gas valves two terminals, you should read low ohm reading of about 5 ohms or so. If its an open circuit its bad. If its a really high ohm reading its bad.

A short video that might help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RZtxSvOe-U

Dual Control Valve installed and the oven is now functional. The resistance across the oven terminals was 200meg ohms, and the broiler was 0 ohms. Thanks Again for the assistance.