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OCH7  
#1 Posted : Monday, September 5, 2016 7:53:05 PM(UTC)
OCH7

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Hi guys, this is probably beaten to death but I'm still stumped as to what my problem is.

Here goes, dryer spins, igniter glows and shuts off, but there is no flame/heat.

I checked resistance at all components and they all seem good; however I just realised that the orifice is still the natural gas one while I have Lpg gas and the gas valve screw is up.

Did this error in settings cause a rippling effect and if so what parts should I change. I was thinking the safety thermostat although the resistance appears good.
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cbmserviceguy  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, September 6, 2016 7:55:36 AM(UTC)
cbmserviceguy

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What amp draw are you getting on the igniter when it glows? Sounds like an igniter or valve coils to me. Also, once you figure out the issue, get a conversion kit for it before you use it. It'll make a sooty mess otherwise.
OCH7  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, September 6, 2016 11:39:58 AM(UTC)
OCH7

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Hi thanks for quick reply.
Looking to buy the new orifice today, then re-assemble unit and test.
But even if the igniter still glows and the correct resistance is measured,19.9k ohms , should I still try to change it? Same goes for the two DC valves.
How many amps should I expect to see?

Thanks though, I really appreciate it especially since it is DIY.
cbmserviceguy  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, September 6, 2016 2:09:57 PM(UTC)
cbmserviceguy

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That one has a flat ignitor in it if I'm not mistaken. Should be around 2.7 amps or so. Have you checked the radiant sensor beside the ignitor yet? Don't forget to change the regulator and open the air shutter when you convert it.
OCH7  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, September 6, 2016 3:02:31 PM(UTC)
OCH7

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It is actually the cylindrical tip one.
However, while in search of the orifice today, the tech at the service center gave me basically the same advice with respect to the igniter so I think I'll just change it.
If you mean the flame sensor, yeah I did and it read the recommended ohms as well.
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