You've done well so far in the investigation. Time to dig a bit deeper. Now check the timer to see if it is conducting from Line 1 input to the heating element output terminal. These may be indicated on the timer or in the wiring diagram. You may have to follow the wiring harness to see which terminal connection is the output. If you are getting a complete circuit there next check for continuity on the temperature control switch. If that shows good there may be an issue stemming from the feed on Line 2. The second half of the power comes directly from the terminal block to the centrifugal switch on the motor then to the heating element. You will need to manually trip the centrifugal switch to see if you have continuity there. The test will be across the two outside terminals. watch Bill to see how.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wnEEIAsmok

I've attached a generic whirlpool dryer wiring diagram.
In short the dryer only uses 220/240v for the heating element, everything else operates from 110/120v. Looking at the schematic L1 (line 1) runs from the electric terminal block to the timer (left side of pic) and L2 (line 2) runs directly to the centrifugal switch on the motor. L2 doesn't run the motor, it only goes there to then be passed on to side 2 of the heating element. L1 runs everything else, the timer motor, the drive motor, and side 1 of the heating element.
When I say check to see if L1 is conducting thru to the output of the timer, I mean (sorry I didn't explain it earlier) turn the timer to say 30 minutes high heat setting (oh don't forget to unplug the electric before performing any tests) then using your multimeter check to see if there is continuity from the terminal where L1 enters the timer to the lead going out to side 1 of the heating element. If memory serves L1 should be the black lead coming in from the terminal block and L2 the red lead going straight down to the centrifugal switch. The lead going out from the timer to the Thermal cutoff's and hi-limit thermostats is red or red with a white stripe. If you have continuity from where the black lead enters the timer to the red lead going to the thermostats when the timer is set for heat then check the lead coming from the motor as you saw in the video.
I agree Bill's videos are very instructional, I watch and learn from him every week!

I would really like to see if you have continuity from the heavy gauge black wire coming in from the electric terminal to the heavy gauge red wire when the timer is turned on. They should be next to one another plugged into the timer in a three wire terminal block. Watch the video Whirlpool WPW10185982 Timer - AppliancePartsPros.com to see the wires I describe.

Greetings Brobriffin! I have connected my leads to the thicker red & black wires that are next to each other on the timer while set to 30 minutes and there is no continuity.

Thanks for the reply Brobriffin! Can you explain to me what's supposed to happen? I studied the wiring diagram trying to understand it but the timer is supposed to short between the red and black wires? The L1 (black) and red which goes to the heating element does nothing on my meter when I turn the timer to 30 minutes. Also there's an orange wire that goes from the heating element hi limit thermostat directly to the timer. I just want to understand how this works. Also was the temp selector suppose to do what I had described?