Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

3 Pages<123
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Gene  
#21 Posted : Friday, March 7, 2008 4:13:33 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
The first thing I would do is check the following parts for continuity:

1. The heating element (#6 on the break down diagram)

2. The thermal cut-off (#34 on the break down diagram)

3. The hi limit thermostat (#13 on the break down diagram)

4. The cycling thermostats (#56 or #58 on the break down diagram)

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter – How to check continuity with Ohmmeter.

Any of these parts with an open circuit has to be replaced.

- The part number for the heating element is AP3109438

- The part number for the thermal cut-off is AP3094093

- The part number for the hi limit thermostat is AP3115922 (set on 155°)

- The part number for the cycling thermostats is AP3115922 (#56 set on 150°F, #58 set on 140°F)

Gene.
Single Mom  
#22 Posted : Saturday, March 8, 2008 1:58:03 PM(UTC)
Single Mom

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19

Ok.. i started at the outllet took cover off my 4 prong got 120 on each side using top L as neutral. I took both leads off and checked 13 56 58 and 34...they all registered a reading of 0 ohms,,,,,,,,,,,,needle moved towards 0...not infinity. The element I wasnt quite sure how to check, I put one lead on left coil and one lead on right coil, Got 0 ohm reading as well...not infinity....not sure whats going on. After I put new breaker in it worked for about 5 loads, then pooped out.
Gene  
#23 Posted : Sunday, March 9, 2008 1:54:21 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Did you get 240V across both hot wires?

May be the new breaker is not good or installed improperly?

Gene.
Single Mom  
#24 Posted : Monday, March 10, 2008 2:01:53 PM(UTC)
Single Mom

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19

Yes, 240 across both hots
Gene  
#25 Posted : Tuesday, March 11, 2008 12:26:01 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Remove the rear cover and check the power cord connection to the dryer terminal block.

If there is nothing wrong - check for 120V on each wire to the heating element separate.

Gene.
Single Mom  
#26 Posted : Friday, March 14, 2008 7:59:26 AM(UTC)
Single Mom

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19

Gene, I back tracked to all the items I messed with on the dryer. I took off the top rear panel and saw that the red wire had popped off its terminal for the push in dryer switch. Squished it back on with pliers and its back up running and heating. Feel like such an ass.......but I can tell you one thing I probably know more about dryers now then most women. Thank you again, and everyone for all your help. This is a wonderful site.
Single Mom  
#27 Posted : Friday, March 14, 2008 8:02:43 AM(UTC)
Single Mom

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19

Also, Thank you for the parts breakdown for my dryer. I will keep that in a safe place along with the continuity information. Have a great day... you guys are real heroes!!!!!
Users browsing this topic
Guest (6)
3 Pages<123
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.