Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2016(UTC) Posts: 3
|
First time post!
I've got a Kenmore Electric Range #790.92109010; I'm guessing around 8 years old. I just noticed a rather high pitched soft noise during preheat (400*), and once it reached the desired temp, the oven kept on clicking on and off (much more than normal...every 5-10 seconds). I noticed that the oven power light kept on clicking on and off as well. Preheat seems to be okay...
The stovetop seems to do something similar; working fine if it is turned on high, but quickly cutting on and off (faster than usual) during heating (medium low heat).
The clock and other functions seem to work fine. I took the back off to check for any loose wiring to power cord or operating board; all looks in good condition. The only thing I have done to it recently is reattach the display when it broke off.
Thoughts? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: binderland First time post!
I've got a Kenmore Electric Range #790.92109010; I'm guessing around 8 years old. I just noticed a rather high pitched soft noise during preheat (400*), and once it reached the desired temp, the oven kept on clicking on and off (much more than normal...every 5-10 seconds). I noticed that the oven power light kept on clicking on and off as well. Preheat seems to be okay...
The stovetop seems to do something similar; working fine if it is turned on high, but quickly cutting on and off (faster than usual) during heating (medium low heat).
The clock and other functions seem to work fine. I took the back off to check for any loose wiring to power cord or operating board; all looks in good condition. The only thing I have done to it recently is reattach the display when it broke off.
Thoughts? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Binderland, Since the elements (oven and cooktop) operate at 220-240 VAC, and both are operating erratically, you'll need to use a multi meter and check for voltage changes (drops or increases) "under a load". Even though the wiring appears OK and proper a loose wire or weak connection in the power supply will increase the amperage draw and could cause the elements to cycle off and on early(short cycle). You'll most likely find an issue in the L2 leg of the electrical system.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2016(UTC) Posts: 3
|
UPDATE: Examining further; it seems that the bake function is the only thing that is acting erratically. the voltage is another issue. My friend and I checked it out; I'm only getting 212 vac to the oven...and my whole apartment. The actual oven outlet, as well as the breaker box...all 212. The builder says that is enough power. What should I do? Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Binderland, Since the elements (oven and cooktop) operate at 220-240 VAC, and both are operating erratically, you'll need to use a multi meter and check for voltage changes (drops or increases) "under a load". Even though the wiring appears OK and proper a loose wire or weak connection in the power supply will increase the amperage draw and could cause the elements to cycle off and on early(short cycle). You'll most likely find an issue in the L2 leg of the electrical system.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: binderland UPDATE: Examining further; it seems that the bake function is the only thing that is acting erratically.
the voltage is another issue. My friend and I checked it out; I'm only getting 212 vac to the oven...and my whole apartment. The actual oven outlet, as well as the breaker box...all 212. The builder says that is enough power. What should I do? Binderland, Your range is designed to operate properly on a minimum of 220 VAC. (110 VAC per leg), yes it will operate on lower voltage, but not properly. You may want to ask a neighbor if they have the same problem baking or cooking. You may want to have the power company come in and re check the voltages to yours and a couple of other apartments. You may be in an older building that was designed to have a 208 VAC system, back during the energy crisis. Your other alternative is to contact the Sears/Kenmore customer service team, see if they have 208 VAC elements for your particular model Range.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2016(UTC) Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Binderland, Your range is designed to operate properly on a minimum of 220 VAC. (110 VAC per leg), yes it will operate on lower voltage, but not properly. You may want to ask a neighbor if they have the same problem baking or cooking. You may want to have the power company come in and re check the voltages to yours and a couple of other apartments. You may be in an older building that was designed to have a 208 VAC system, back during the energy crisis. Your other alternative is to contact the Sears/Kenmore customer service team, see if they have 208 VAC elements for your particular model Range. Just an update concerning voltage... I had the power guy come out, and he says that my building is designed and rated for 208 vac. No one is**sure why, but it is a 3 phase transformer, from phase to phase both 'hot legs' are 120 vac, but together it comes out to 208 vac. I'm sure I am miscommunicating this, but that's what I heard at least! :). Long story short, no problem with the power, and I guess some appliances are designed for this, and I believe my stove is one of them, since it mentions this on the model and serial number. I still have a stove that seems to be jumping on and off a lot more than it used to in traditional baking mode, but at least my house isn't totally broken. Thanks again for all of your thoughts!**
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: binderland Just an update concerning voltage...
I had the power guy come out, and he says that my building is designed and rated for 208 vac. No one is**sure why, but it is a 3 phase transformer, from phase to phase both 'hot legs' are 120 vac, but together it comes out to 208 vac. I'm sure I am miscommunicating this, but that's what I heard at least! :). Long story short, no problem with the power, and I guess some appliances are designed for this, and I believe my stove is one of them, since it mentions this on the model and serial number.
I still have a stove that seems to be jumping on and off a lot more than it used to in traditional baking mode, but at least my house isn't totally broken.
Thanks again for all of your thoughts!** Binderland, Don't know what to tell you. the building is designed to operate on 208 VAC, what the electrician told you is correct(your building was probably built back in the 70's) during the energy crunch, most multiple housing units were reconfigured for 208 VAC to conserve energy(hospitals operate on 208 VAC as well). You may want to try a new oven temp. sensor Part number: AP5989130
, don't think it will make a difference, but you may want to give it a try. The clocks/ERC will recognize and adjust to the 50 vs 60 Hz. and the lower voltage wont usually effect the control operation, but I don't know of a clock or switches that will adjust the voltage to the elements when on a 208 VAC system. You still may want to contact Sears/Kenmore about 208 Volt bake and broil elements. Thanks Again, Good Luck
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close