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redsel  
#1 Posted : Monday, January 25, 2016 2:39:00 PM(UTC)
redsel

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Dryer worked fine until about 2 years ago at which time it stopped heating, solved problem temporarily by replacing hi temp thermostat, dryer fails every 2 to 3 months, either no heat or excessive heat, have replaced both thermostats on heater box several times, solves problem for awhile but does not last, recently after a high heat problem I replaced thermostats again though they tested fine, as does heating element and cycling switch / thermostat....still too hot at normal settings, I did discover this time that if I touch one terminal of a thermostat to the back cover (which I cut access openings in) I get a reading of 120V.....found accidentally by touching while tightening clamp om vent tube. What gives? am becoming very frustrated, please any advise would be appreciated.:( dnm1971@yahoo.com.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, January 26, 2016 6:20:52 AM(UTC)
denman

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A model number would be helpful at least if I can find a wiring diagram.
Find your model number - AppliancePartsPros.com

Kenmore numbers are usually 3 digits, a period and then an additional 8 digits.

Did you check if the heating element was grounded.

Unplug the unit and both wires from the heating element.
Measure across the element, should be in the 8 to 12 ohms range.
Then measure from each side of the element to it's case, both should be infinite ohms.
If not the element is grounded and should be replaced.

Grounding can cause the element to run unregulated by the control thermostat.
But the hi-limit thermostat will turn it on/off.
The hi-limit thermostat's contacts are great so over time they fail (usually weld together) this then blows the thermal cut-off which is there to protect against such an occurance.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
redsel  
#3 Posted : Thursday, February 11, 2016 9:52:17 AM(UTC)
redsel

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model number is 110-67622600, dryer gets too hot on normal settings, must be set on delicate to dry normal loads, cycles normally but gets hot [emits odor, hot heating element].
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, February 11, 2016 11:39:24 AM(UTC)
denman

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See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Did you check to see if the heating element is grounded?
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
redsel  
#5 Posted : Thursday, February 11, 2016 1:30:36 PM(UTC)
redsel

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The heating element is not grounded. I just checked it again, and removed it, physically looked for any visible irregularities, none observed re-installed and installed yet another new set of thermostats and checked all connections, all seems well.....it still runs hot.
denman  
#6 Posted : Friday, February 12, 2016 1:15:08 AM(UTC)
denman

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I am not sure why you are replacing the thermostats on the heater if you are getting heat.
They are just safety devices and should not operate (open) if the unit is operating properly.
Have you checked or replaced the operating thermostat on the blower?

If it is bad (contacts welded together) then the unit is always on very high heat. Then the high limit thermostat starts opening and closing but it will not last very long because it's contacts are not as robust as the operating thermostat's. So eventually they weld together and then the thermal cutoff thermostat blows.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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