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Woodym1946  
#1 Posted : Thursday, December 3, 2015 5:12:03 AM(UTC)
Woodym1946

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Joined: 12/3/2015(UTC)
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I have a Whirlpool Dryer Model LEQ9508PW1 that recently died. Was working fine then nothing...nothing at all. Even the light in the drum doesn't work. Chatting with the repair pro it was determined to be the thermal switch. That was replaced. Nothing happened. Then possibly the push to start switch and I have that removed. Trip to the local appliance parts house and they didn't have one. I have checked and have power through the terminal block and to every spade connection that I can reach with a probe. I still need to buy a new push to start switch, but also realize that I may need something additional to make this work. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, December 3, 2015 7:28:11 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool LEQ9508PW1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Unless the interior light going off is just a coincidence it will not be the push to start switch.

It could be the door switch re: the contacts are not closing.
It can be checked with a meter using resistance.

If you put the timer mid scale of a heated timed dry cycle and the timer does not advance this would also point towards a door switch or a power problem.
Could also be a timer problem.

I do not know how you checked for power but you must check that there is 240 volts between L1 and L2. This is the only way to be sure you have both supplies when the unit is plugged in.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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