Hello all, wondering if there are any "new-fangled" electronic controlled window-unit savvy folks here. We have several of these monsters mounted in-wall...some a few years older than others, all bought at home depot. The first few were branded "Hampton Bay" and the latest are "LG"...same machines, as far as looks...they've just made them cheaper and cheaper as it goes on. Not all that impressed with the "new, lighter, cheaper" stuff at all...they seem to break a LOT more than the good old window units of yore. Here's a link to the basic model:

LG LWHD1800R WINDOW ROOM AIR CONDITIONER 18,000 BTU

The latest one is less than two years old, and the compressor just suddenly stopped coming on. We'd finally been able to turn it off for a few days, and then needed it yesterday. The fan comes on, all the lights/controls seem to function, just nada when the compressor is supposed to kick on.

Now, in the old days, I'd just test the rotary switch and the thermostat, and maybe the run capacitor. Now with all the computer boards instead of actual controls, I am wondering what the first logical troubleshooting step would be. I can swap parts from a spare machine if I know what to swap.

I have already switched out that flimsy wire thing that on an old AC would be the thermostat bulb and line. That didn't do anything. The metal can capacitor looks fine, but could it be burnt and still look good? I have no clue about any of the electronic stuff, so any help would be...well...helpful!

Many thanks in advance.

:DTIP: (check to see if the terminals on the capacitor are shorted to avoid any minor explosions.) Plug the cord into a 120 volt outlet for 3 seconds. This charges the cap. Tap the cheater cord prongs on an iron surface to discharge it. If it makes a snap or popping sound it is good. If it does not hold a charge it is bad. Another way is to check it with an analog meter. Set the meter on the most sensitive continuity setting (ohms). Be sure the capacitor is discharged so the meter won't be fried. Touch the leads to the discharged cap. The needle on the meter should hop; reverse the leads and retry; it should hop again. That is an indication of a cap that will hold a charge. If the needle never moves of course that is a sign the cap is bad(open). Also if the needle goes all the way over and stays, that is an indication the cap is shorted and therefore bad. The cap is designed to boost the power to the motor to get it going with multiple windings being powered up at once. As soon as the motor reaches running speed the cap drops out of the circuit and then it only takes half the power for the motor to continue running at optimum speed. This saves energy.
FYI: The old style shaded pole motors had no capacitor and so they used twice the power to do the same job. The capacitor holds a voltage charge that will bite your ass, when power is applied to the motor that momentary charged capacitor gives dat motor a kick in the asz to git it goin.

Dang I just had a major trip, I am just like one of them capacitor, I am needed to get the thang goin but once that is fixed I am history:confused:.

beebs you could replace all that electronic stuff with analog selector switch and old type thermostat. not hard to do. if intrested, give me a call and I'll 'splain it to you. 662-542-5161