Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/29/2015(UTC)
Posts: 2
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The front right dual element burner went on us about a week ago. After surfing the web for a while I came across several posts that dealt with the issue that we were having. First thing I did was to check the element for continuity. That checked out just fine. Most of what I read seemed to point to the Infinite Switch as the culprit. So what do I do you ask. G out and spend a hundred dollars on a switch only to find out that the same problem persisted. I'm stuck with a brand new switch. Back to square one. Your assistance / suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and my apologies for the long-winded post. Feeling a little frustrated, that's all !!!:mad:
Related part numbers:
Range: JES9900BCS21 (This model comes up as a Maytag, don't know why)
Element: 74011986
Switch: W10185286
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 187
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The switch should cost far less than that. If you think it could be the infinite switch, you can take the console cover off, and look at the back side of the switch. You will see a metal contact that is very visible from the back of the switch, which closes and opens to complete the circuit. Most of the time, the contact will be burned, corroded, etc, so you can tell it is bad from looking at it.
You can also take the switch out, and check it for continuity by turning the switch off and on while touching the terminals with the meter leads.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/29/2015(UTC)
Posts: 2
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Hello CletusT. My apologies for not getting back to you sooner. First off, thank you for the prompt reply. As far as the switch price goes yes indeed it cost me 85.00 plus tax. I'm in Canada so that comes to a little over a hundred bucks. What a bummer.
You mention checking the existing switch. 1) It does not appear corroded or burned. 2) As I mentioned in my original post I did put in the new switch and that didn't help. So, this would lead me to believe that my original switch is intact. How can I know for sure that the burner is the problem without shelling out close to 200.00 for a new one. If it is not the switch or burner, where else should I be looking. Thanks again. I really appreciate your input. Peter
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 187
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Sorry, I misunderstood you on buying the switch. The element can still show continuity and be bad. It can show some continuity while not having enough to heat the element.
You can check to see if you are getting 240 volts to the element by checking the wire harness where it plugs in to the burner. Use extreme caution. If there is 240 volts to the element, and it is not heating, it will be bad.
It sounds as though your switch is fine. Most will show corrosion at the contacts when bad.
There do not appear to be any more components on this model that could go bad, other than the wiring harness itself. I'm unsure but usually the control board controls functions other than the burners on top.
Greetings from Oklahoma.
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