Dryer has power, will not start, many tests done... - Appliance Repair Forum

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Model: WED5840SW	Brand: Whirlpool	Age: 5 - 10 years
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NickGarver		#1 Posted : Friday, August 28, 2015 1:30:48 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 8/28/2015(UTC) Posts: 1		Hello, I am at a loss on this one. The drum light is on when you open the door, but it absolutely will not start on any setting. Here is what I have already tested: 1) Thermal fuse - it was blown per a continuity test. I replaced it, still the dryer will not start. 2) Door switch - It operates the light as it should, I assume that denotes continuity. I did not ohm test it. 3) Start button - It is a 3-lead switch, I have continuity when the start button is depressed on two of the three leads. I don't have a schematic to see which of the three leads should have continuity, but I am assuming for now there is continuity. 4) Timer switch - I pulled it off, I do have a schematic, and all required leads on the back have continuity that should be part of the closed circuit when in automatic drying mode. So I am assuming for now, since this is the setting we use, that the timer switch is good. As a side note, we had several loads that were very very hot in the past few months so we started going to the "energy preferred" part of the automatic cycle, which we assume just lessens the length of time the dryer is on and that seemed to bypass that problem. Not sure if a heating element went out and that is why it doesn't start? I just assumed if it was a bad heating element it would just try to dry without heat. Suggestions for what I have already done or new suggestions for things left untested? I would prefer to fix this one if possible. In the mean time, I am going to pry up some boards on my deck and make sure the vent outlet is clear and run a leaf blower through the vent piping before I put the deck back together. Something obviously caused the thermal fuse to blow. THANKS!


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denman		#2 Posted : Saturday, August 29, 2015 2:53:34 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638 Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)		Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool WED5840SW0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com See the attachment for your tech sheet. [COLOR="Blue"]2) Door switch - It operates the light as it should, I assume that denotes continuity. I did not ohm test it.[/COLOR] Sort of. It tells your that the switch contacts are OK on the lamp side but does not tell you that the switch is OK on the motor/run side. [COLOR="Blue"]3) Start button - It is a 3-lead switch, I have continuity when the start button is depressed on two of the three leads. I don't have a schematic to see which of the three leads should have continuity, but I am assuming for now there is continuity.[/COLOR] The start switch is actually a relay with a manual contact close feature A lot depends on how/what you were measuring. The start switch/relay coil should always have continuity (resistance) the relay contacts should have 0 ohms when the switch is pushed and when the relay is activated. [COLOR="Blue"] 4) Timer switch - I pulled it off, I do have a schematic, and all required leads on the back have continuity that should be part of the closed circuit when in automatic drying mode. So I am assuming for now, since this is the setting we use, that the timer switch is good.[/COLOR] Not sure where/what you measured so cannot comment. Set the timer to timed dry mid scale. I am assuming that this is where the unit will not start. Unplug the unit and attach a meter lead (clip or tape) to Neutral on the line cord. Set your meter to it's most sensitive ohms scale (usually 200 ohms). Short the meter leads together before you start to see if there is a zero offset in the meter. Now work your way back through the start/motor circuit. With the door closed both side 9white and light blue should be 0 ohms. Contact T and W at the timer should be 0 ohms 5 M at the motor should be 0 ohms 4M at the motor should be a couple ohms (motor's windings) Both sides of the thermal fuse should be a couple ohms Light blue at the start switch should be a couple ohms With the start switch pushed BU (blue) at the timer should be a couple ohms With the start switch pushed BK (black) at the timer should be a couple ohms With the start switch pushed black at the terminal strip should be a couple ohms also L1 at the line cord prong. There that is the complete start circuit checked.
		THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!


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