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ph4acid  
#1 Posted : Sunday, August 9, 2015 1:21:21 PM(UTC)
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ph4acid

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Joined: 8/9/2015(UTC)
Posts: 2

My freezer temp reach 20F and refrigerator was 45F. I cleared out all the food and noticed there was frost inside the back of the freezer.

I removed the doors and saw frost on the upper 2/3 of the coil. I unplugged to thaw and then plugged it back in. The freezer and refrigerator got down to the set temperatures and all was good for about 2 weeks.

The freezer temp has gone up in the last 2-3 days and is currently at 14F. Refrigerator is not at 40F.

What's are the likely culprits and how do I test them?
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ph4acid  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, August 25, 2015 6:18:36 PM(UTC)
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ph4acid

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/9/2015(UTC)
Posts: 2

I found an earlier thread that had similiar problems at forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/468686-change-temperature-sensor.html

Following those instructions:
the defroster test (J9 and pin 9 of J7) = no resistance on 200 ohm scale.
The thermistor test (both evaporator and freezer) = no resistance 20K and 200K scale. (same as if I just touch the test leads together). It appears the thermistors are bad based on this test.

I also found: applianceassistant.com/ServiceManuals/31-9072_arctica_profile_ge_side-by-side_refrigerator_service_manual.pdf

Based on the service manual, page 52 Heavy Frost on Evaporator, I ran the diagnostic and the defroster did not come on (the area below the evaporator coils did not warm up after the door was closed for about 5 minutes. There was still frost on all over the coil.) The temp in the freezer based on the freezer's display changed from 0 to 16 F.

The wire to J9 and orange wire on J7 connector showed 0 ohms. With the fridge plugged in, the VAC across J9 and pin 9 of J7 showed 0 Volts VAC (on 200 volt scale). Should I have the connectors plugged into the mainboard and the fridge plugged in to get this reading or can I measure across the corresponding pins on the mainboard?

Just for kicks, I ran diagnostic 0 7 for thermistors and all 5 passed despite the zero resistance when measured across J1 pin 3 and 5, and J1 pin 4 and 5.
Do I need to replace the main board and the thermistors?

My wife is getting annoyed about not having a freezer/fridge every time I have to unplug to thaw it out and diagnose. Any help would be much appreciated.
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