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Read the stickies, but they all keep pointing to things I think I've checked.
This unit came with the house I recently purchased, but the owners told me of this issue. When I plugged it in, I got a good month out of it. Defrosted fridge coils with a hair dryer, got three weeks. Now I'm down to doing it every three days. LCD reads 1 for the freezer and 37 for the fridge on the 1st day after defrost, and 4 for the freezer and 43 for the fridge a few days later. Food on the top shelf begins to spoil. I knew nothing about fridges, but I am quickly learning!! Freezer started knocking today, but food is still solid.
Here's the novice diagnostics I've done:
1. Evap thermistor was previously replaced. Could only get a reading for the freezer themistor at the mb (the fresh food and evap thermistor were reading briefly and then blank screen, frezer was 16.3 on the money, so I cut the evap thermistor out of the fridge and it tested fine, 16.3)
2. Freezer is not condensing at thr back wall, food frozen solid despite readings of 4.
3. Evap fan appears to be running fine when light is depressed.
I also did a test with the blue plug on the MB, but gave up becsuse I don't know what I'm doing and it seemed kinda random.
Thoughts? I would suspect the MB because of the ohms readings, but the plugs seem to be connected to the casing, not the board. Can't find the service manual to save my life, but will bake the most delicious treats for whomever helps me fix this thing!!
Thanks,
Jen
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 187
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I would check the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater as well.
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Rank: Member
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Cletus...are they in the panel in my fridge, panel in.my freezer or panel on back? We didn't want to disassble everything without knowing what we were looking for.
Thx!!
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Rank: Member
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They are located behind the panel of the freezer side. Not as difficult as you may think really. Once you get the panel off, you may see that the evaporator coils are iced over, a good sign the thermostat is out.
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Rank: Member
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Ok, the fridge side Ecoils are frozen over again. I need to unscrew the shelving from the freezer to get the panel off, whereas the fridge side comes right iff. This the only reason why I haven't checked that fully. Will let you know..
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: CletusT  I would check the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater as well. Cletus-- the defrost heater is fine, but looked dodgy, so I replaced it. The thermostat is hard wired to the fridge sharing one wire with the heater (pink) and the other is wired into the light socket. Am I correct in assuming I need to cut these wires to test it? Someone is arguing with me that continuity can be tested without through the light fixture and heater connector(s) and that anyone who says otherwise just doesn't understand circuitry. I am thinking the dozens of instructional materials that suggest the wires need to be cut are correct. Also, if the therm tests ok, what would make the most sense to test next? All the thermistors test fine and the fridge coils are the only ones that are overly frosted. Freezer coils look fine.
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Rank: Member
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Yes I usually have to cut wires on defrost thermostat to test it/ replace it. That is what you're asking me correct?
I have heard of this model having issues with the thermistors/ temp sensors, so one could be bad, there are more than one in this model if I am correct.
I forgot to ask, how is the condenser fan running? Any blockage of dust, lint, pet hair etc. will cause issues in the condenser coils and fan. Condenser fan needs to be running when compressor kicks on.
You need to check the damper control which circulates air between compartments as well.
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Rank: Member
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How does one go about testing the damper? I'm troubleshooting my own problem and I think it's either the thermistor in the fresh food part or the damper. (Coils are not iced over, coil heating elements seems to be working fine).
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