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Joined: 7/31/2015(UTC)
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We had an ice maker fail in this unit. The motor stripped itself internally (Jammed). So we ordered a new ice maker. Swapped it out, and the unit started not wanting to cool.
We cleaned the condenser coils, condenser fan, and the vent cover for the fan. Checking the evap fan in the freezer, it is moving air. The evap coil is not a block of ice.
The freezer only wants to cool to about 50 degrees with it set all the way up. The fridge seems to be about the same temp. From what I observed, the compressor is continuously running.
I had the evap cover off in the freezer, and did notice that the top of the coils were starting to frost over. I didn't check all the way to the bottom, but from the little bit of the fins I can see through the holes, I don't see any frost.
My two main suspects are the thermostat (not the defrost one), or the ADC. I say the thermostat because I say the compressor is steadily running, but I'm not camping around it to tell if it is or not.
I'm not sure about the ADC, because I've heard if they fail, they fail in the cooling position, not defrost.
I need any help I can get... I'm trying to make this unit last until the new year so I can replace it.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/31/2015(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Update: the compressor is short cycling. It runs for about a minute or so then shuts off. Sits for a minute or so, and then repeat.
Compressor is hot to the touch.
I checked the capacitor and it reads 15uf on my meter.
Could the overload just be bad? Or the cap weak?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/2/2015(UTC)
Posts: 187
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If the evap coils do not have a frost pattern over the entire set of coils, there may be a sealed system leak. When there is a leak of coolant, the evap coils will only frost part of the way, and sometimes a ball of ice will form at the beginning of the coils.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi. Based on your precise diagnostics your need to replace the starting components. Unplug the refrigerator and take the compressor area cover off. Let it cool down and then remove the relay and overload assembly off the compressor. Shake it and if it rattles - it's bad. Before ordering new parts I need you to check the compressor first. You will need a multimeter for that. Check the continuity between all three compressor's terminals. All of them should read continuity. Then touch any of the terminals and any of the copper tubes. Should have no continuity. This proves that compressor windings are not burnt out and not grounded. Then you can get the starting components. The starting components Part number: AP5787784
Here are the breakdown diagrams and parts list for your refrigerator: Model MSD2651KGB
Good luck. Please keep us posted with the results. Thank you, Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/31/2015(UTC)
Posts: 8
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The compressor checks out electrically. No shorts to the body, and continuity between the pins.
Obtained the new start components and installed. Compressor is still cycling off the overload with an audible "click".
The Start-dev kit I obtained has a part # of W10613606, which cross-references to the part given above.
Before, the compressor overload was cycling in and out, and the compressor itself was hot. Now, with the new start-dev, the compressor is still cycling off the overload, but is not hot to the touch.
I'm trying to exhaust every option before condemning this fridge. The only thing I can think of at this point is the compressor is going bad. I suppose the start-dev I have is defective.
I'm beginning to think this fridge has seen its final days.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/31/2015(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Ended up just replacing the unit.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556
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Hi.
Sorry to hear that. In case if a compressor is still clicking on/off after an overload has been replaced usually would mean that the compressor is jammed and it should be replaced. Getting a new refrigerator all together is probably a good idea.
Thank you,
Simon.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/31/2015(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Well, the confusing thing is the compressor ran. It would just run for 1-2 mins and cut out. You could watch the frost build up on the evaporator. It was just drawing too much current I guess.
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