Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2015(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Yup. A very common problem as I have read. I would like your opinion on the "order of operations" that you would take in replacing parts on this unit.
It started when I noticed some interior frosting on items in the freezer - and noticed that items, such as ice cream were rock solid - my thought was the freezer was too cold. Both the freezer and refrigerator temperature knobs were in the middle since we purchased the unit.
I went to get a glass of milk - and it was chilled, but not cold - clearly the refrigerator cabinet was warm - it was 58-60, so that food got thrown out.
I unloaded the freezer and removed the back panel - solid ice on the coils, which I melted, so clearly an issue with defrosting. Airflow through the vent to the refrigerator is a gentle flow - not enough to blow out a match if that is any indication.
Money, unfortunately is very tight, and I am hoping the unit is fixable. I was going to replace the defroster coil, the thermostat, and the defrost timer. I suppose I can do all of those at once, but would like to get your opinion.
Some other random thoughts - I was unable to find a compressor fan - is it possible its enclosed in the housing? The evaporator is spinning - and provides a nice cold flow of air out the freezer vents.
Any assistance that you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Been up all night looking at this, so my thoughts are perhaps a but jumbled - sorry about that.
Sean
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Parts for Kenmore Refrigerator 2537482240E - AppliancePartsPros.comIf you go to the Sears paarts site they have part breakdown diagrams. Also there is a wiring diagram though it is not very legible, it is the best I can find. Sears will not share these with other parts vendors so it is the best I can do. Sounds like it is a defrost problem. First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils. If they are heavily iced/frosted over then it is a defrost problem. Do not let them de-ice. If yes. Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam till the fans and compressor turn off. It is in the control module in the fresh food section. There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without taking anything apart. Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on. Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers. If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle. If not on. Unplug the unit. Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so. If the heater is OK Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK. If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast. Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo. [COLOR="Blue"] I was unable to find a compressor fan - is it possible its enclosed in the housing?[/COLOR] Although the wiring diagram shows a condenser/compressor fan I cannot see on in the parts breakdown so I would say that this unit does not have one. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2015(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Denman,
Thank you for your response.
I am going to check this out tonight. I just need to pick up a multimeter on my way home from work. I will post back what I discover.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2015(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Update:
The coil and the thermostat tested GOOD for conductivity - and I picked up the defrost timer at my local shop, and fingers crossed, I believe that was the culprit. I noticed a much longer defrost cycle this time - instead of the coil going off after 30 seconds or so, it was on for a good few minutes. I thought that perhaps it was the thermostat detecting too much heat and shutting it down - but after much testing I believe it was the timer all along. I have had it running for close to 48 hours since - and i put a bottle of water with a digital thermometer in the fridge. It is hovering between 35.1 and 36.3.
Thank you for your suggestion and your guidance in getting this repaired!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
