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brunk  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, May 20, 2015 10:40:04 AM(UTC)
brunk

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I've got a Whirlpool LER7646EQ1. The drum will not turn however the heat works. I bought a new motor thinking that the most likely cause. I hooked up the new motor, plugged in the door switch but I did not re-assemble the whole unit. The heat still works and the motor still does not turn.

Is there a way to test the timer? I don't want to order one of those unless I know it's bad as they are pretty expensive. Can I disconnect the heater element for testing so that it doesn't overheat?

I have replaced the motor once before a number of years ago. Also, the timer was replaced a long time ago as well as a temperature sensor or heater element, can't remember for sure on that.

Anywhere I can download a schematic?

edit: Also, I tested the power at the terminals at the back of the dryer and have 110 on both.

Thanks!
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fairbank56  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 20, 2015 1:37:34 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Sounds like you have a grounded heat element which is why it's heating without the motor running. As for the motor not running, check the thermal fuse on the blower housing. A grounded element can cause the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse.

Eric
brunk  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 20, 2015 2:51:48 PM(UTC)
brunk

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Thank you!

I checked from the element terminal to the metal enclosure and it is a short. This doesn't seem very safe. A new element should fix this right?

I haven't had time to check the sensor yet, I've got a meeting I'm already lat for, but I'll check it later.
fairbank56  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, May 20, 2015 6:19:09 PM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Yes, a new element will take care of that problem. Here's the link for that part as well as the thermal fuse if you need it.

Whirlpool 279838 Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element - AppliancePartsPros.com

Whirlpool 3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse - AppliancePartsPros.com

Eric
brunk  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, May 20, 2015 6:52:01 PM(UTC)
brunk

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Thank you for the help, much appreciated. Yeah, the element reads 9.6 across the terminals and 4.8 from terminal to metal enclosure. My thermal fuse is bad as well. one of the leads to the element had the insulation bubbled up back about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch so I'm going to cut that back and put a new terminal on there as well.

Thank you again for the help!!!
brunk  
#6 Posted : Thursday, May 21, 2015 5:32:26 AM(UTC)
brunk

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Also, I took out the heater element and it was shorted where the element goes from the bank on one side to the other, which explains the resistance reading.

The thermal fuse by the blower was open so I will replace that. I measured the thermostat and it showed zero ohms and did not change when i heated it with a hair dryer. I don't know 100% if that means it's bad but I'm going to get one of those as well. Hopefully there are no other problems.
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