KUDP01DLBS6 Undercounter Dishwasher. Wash cycle was not completed and water was left in the bottom. No panel lights or functioning buttons. Checked the 'thermal overload fuse' and there was no continuity. Replaced the fuse, but did not use the new kit wires as all wiring and connections looked good. Dishwasher seemed to operate fine until somewhere in the wash cycle. Warm water was in the bottom, up to the heating element. Fuse was again blown. I short circuited the wires for fuse and could empty the water.

I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet and turned it over for better access. As best as I can determine all components, e.g., motors, pumps, heating elements, etc. have within range the designated ohm readings EXCEPT the ‘high limit thermostat’. I assume it is closed (conductive) until about 180F. I placed the bottom of the thermostat in near boiling water and it still registered conductivity. Touching or tapping it while still hot with my finger sometimes opened the circuit (OL). I will replace both the ‘high limit thermostat’ and the 'thermal overload fuse'.

Question: could such a defective thermostat (always closed) cause the heating element to overheat and thus blow the fuse? Any other suggestions? Circuit board and panel were replaced a year ago due to insect debris…..and I assume these two components are still functional.