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I have a 5-year-old kenmore over the range microwave oven. The other day the oven was completely dead when my wife hit the START trying to heat sth. So today I replaced the fuse (20amp), plugged back in, display lighted up, opened the door, put a cup of water in, closed the door, set 1 min., and almost as soon as I pressed START, the fuse blown and the microwave went dead.
So I unplugged and replaced the fuse again, went through the almost same steps as above except that this time I did not open and close the door since the water was already inside, pressed START, everything went well, the water came out hot as it should. This is the only test I've tried so far after getting it working.
So What caused the fuse to blow? door switch or high voltage capacitor?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/14/2011(UTC)
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Hello amao. It sounds like you have a bad door switch. This unit has a total of 3 switches. It is best to test the switches and see which one is bad. You can test this with a multi-meter AP3873826. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html
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Rank: Member
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Hello i have a Kenmore Microhood Mod. 665.60657000 and I need to find a wiring diagram in relation to the capacitor connections. I just blew the fuse in my unit and i think my wires are on the wrong terminals. It would run but no heating. So I disconnected the wires last night to do some checking of several problems and forgot the proper location for the wires. Any help by chance? Thanks ev372.
Note, door switches-good continuity. Magnatron had continuity. Fuse was good prior to this. High limit switch-good continuity. Diode was checked with a 9v battery- had 5.5 volts thru, same as new Diode.Not sure what else to check.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/14/2011(UTC)
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Being a Kenmore, we can not pull the wiring diagram for this model. However, there should be one inside the cabinet of the unit if you remove the outer cover off the unit. As for the no heat, You most likely have a "high voltage" side malfunction. Transformer, diode, magnetron, Capacitor. You will need to be extremely careful if you decide to test the components with a multi meter, Very high residual voltage is present, so make sure you remove power to the microwave and short across the terminals on the capacitor. The magnetron should have a reading of less than 1 ohm resistance across the two terminals, and an "open" circuit between each terminal and chassis ground. The diode/rectifier should have a resistance reading in one direction only, no resistance, or resistance in both directions indicate a faulty diode. The primary winding on the trans former should read approximately 450 Ohms resistance, the secondary winding should read 80 ohms resistance, and the filament transformer should read 100 ohms resistance. If all the readings are proper and in range, replace the magnetron.
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Rank: Member
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Hello Jeff, I checked all the areas you mentioned and they came back within normal ranges except the transformer was showing 75.4 ohms on the HV side=HV out wire(white) to the chassis. Primary side=0.3 ohms, Secondary/filament winding=0.2 ohms; I was using a digital multimeter set @ 200 ohms for the last two readings. Am I looking at a bad transformer?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 2/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 816
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Bump the meter up to the 2k scale and see what the readings are. If the same is happening, replace the transformer.
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