Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/5/2015(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Hi Repair Guru's, I've got a gas dryer that doesn't start, I hear a click when I open the door and close it when I turn it on. So I'm guessing the relay and door switch are good. I went through the error codes and found a E2. Sears said it was a thermisitor out of range. Replaced it, still wont start, E2 error is now E0. I'm thinking fuse but don't know where its located to test it.
I found more error codes for it but can't find anywhere a list to tell me what's up. T is for test:
T1 = 1G (gas)
T2 = 21,07 (software/eeprom)
T3 = EP (pass)
T4 = All LEDs light up (pass)
I don't know what these codes mean:
T5 = E0
T6 = 71 (I hear a click)
T7 = 38 (I hear a click)
T8 = 50
T9 = dc
TA = EP
I would think it should detect the drum not spinning, but maybe not??
Thanks for your help,
Bryan
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
|
Does the motor hum or is it totally quiet when you start the dryer? There's no fuse. The control board does not detect if motor is running or not. Check for a broken belt. If that's not the problem, you need to check continuity on the belt switch and the door switch. If good, check for power from control board J5 connector.
Eric
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/5/2015(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: fairbank56  Does the motor hum or is it totally quiet when you start the dryer? There's no fuse. The control board does not detect if motor is running or not. Check for a broken belt. If that's not the problem, you need to check continuity on the belt switch and the door switch. If good, check for power from control board J5 connector.
Eric Eric, thanks for your help, no humming at all, was hoping that it would, at least I could check for a jam. Its all free, drum spins fine, etc. Belt's good, had to take it off to get the drum out and replace a temp sensor. Where is the belt switch? Door switch seems ok, light works and when I press start and open the door, I hear a relay click on the control board when I open it, and click again when I close it. No fuse on the motor? Wow, that's a bit risky. Figured they would put in one somewhere in the wire harness. I'll take a look at J5 and see what I get there.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
|
Belt switch is alongside the motor plate and is activated by the idler arm. Check for continuity. The motor has in internal self resetting thermal overload. I suspect the problem is the control board. Need to check for power to the motor at J5.
Eric
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/5/2015(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: fairbank56 Belt switch is alongside the motor plate and is activated by the idler arm. Check for continuity. The motor has in internal self resetting thermal overload. I suspect the problem is the control board. Need to check for power to the motor at J5.
Eric OK it was the circuit board. Power got there but didn't come back out to the motor when the relay closed. I took the assembly out and found the relay is good, the solder pad became heat cycled and after the years, opened up. It burned the PCB a little on the solder pad, so I put a bypass 18AWG wire to create a new trace to reconnect the relay back to the power connector. AND IT WORKS NOW! wow, what a pain in the rear. I've seen this problem before on other appliances. Where there is current and thermal cycling, not enough solder pad area will eventually heat cycle enough and soften the solder, possibly burn the pad resulting in a open circuit. It can be repaired, but better still, PCB manufacturers take note and make the pad area larger so it can handle the heat/current cycling over time...! Eric, thanks for taking time out to answer my questions. And on Easter, a real gift for bringing a dead dryer back to life again...Saved some serious $$$ in the process. Thanks! Bryan
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Expert
Joined: 10/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 3,806
Was thanked: 7 time(s) in 7 post(s)
|
Ok, good job on fixing that. It's a relatively common problem and was most likely due to a faulty solder joint, not that the pad is too small.
Eric
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
