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Hi,
I have a Kenmore "Special Edition" (very similar to the 90 or 70 series) dryer. It was squeaking quite a bit a week ago so I replaced the belt, drum rollers and idler assembly. The squeak went away but after a day the motor wasn't running. The dryer still produced heat but the motor wouldn't turn.
The motor still turned freely by hand without any unusual resistance. I jumped the thermal fuse wires and the motor would run so I replaced the thermal fuse yesterday. It ran a few cycles but today the same thing happened - dryer heating up, motor not turning, new thermal fuse is shot.
Any idea what the issue could be? It isn't clogged with lint or anything like that... Not the most handy guy so I'm not sure what degree of troubleshooting I'd be able to do but any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
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Probably a grounded heater element. Double check the model number, doesn't come up.
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the reply. I'm sure that's the model number - when I called Sears they had it in their system and have me a part number.
Outside it looks like a 90 series but inside like the 70.
If the element was shorting out would it still be heating up? When I turn the dryer on now even with the blown thermal fuse it heats up but just the motor won't run.
Thanks again
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The model number does not come up at the sears parts direct site. Maybe this is a canadian model? The heat should not work with motor not running as heat circuit is through the motor switch which is open with motor not running. With grounded element, you would have 120vac across part of the heater coil when you turn the timer on. Check for a grounded element. You can do this by unplugging the dryer, turn timer on to heat setting, check resistance between metal case of the dryer, must be a good ground such as where there is a screw or bare metal, and one of the two flat blades of the dryer plug. If you get a reading, the element is grounded. I'm assuming this dryer has a mechanical timer, can't know without proper model number.
Eric
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Ok thanks. Yes this is a Canadian model.
When I turn it on the element gets red hot quickly - motor doesn't run. If I jump the thermal fuse then the motor starts running.
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Rank: Member
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Ok just got home from work...
To confirm, tested the thermal fuse and there's no continuity.
Tested thermostat next to fuse with multimeter and there is continuity so I assume this is fine.
Took lint chute out to check for clogs and it was clear. The vent outside was a little plugged up but not too bad - air should still have got out. Checked the rest of the vent and it was clear.
Took the heater coil out and inspected - didn't see anything touching the case or any breaks. Tested for continuity and it had continuity.
Sorry I'm not too sure what you meant by test for a grounded element.
Thanks for your help - it is appreciated.
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I explained how to check for ground in my previous post.
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Ok I'm not sure if I understood. I attached one end of my multimeter to the outside case of the dryer and the other to the main dryer electrical plug and the multimeter didn't do anything. Not sure if this is good or bad?
If this was the problem wouldn't it pop the fuse as soon as I turned it on instead of run for a few loads?
If the motor was drawing too much amps would that potentially pop the fuse? Just seems like a coincidence that this happened right after I changed that belt and idler assembly - could that be related or does that make no sense?
Thanks again
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The heat should not come on when the motor is not running. The only way it can do that is if the motor centrifugal switch is stuck in the run position or the heat element is grounded. If the centrifugal switch is stuck in the run position, the motor would not start. The thermal fuse is in the motor circuit, not the heat circuit. The thermal fuse blows due to the dryer overheating, not due to too much current through it. With a grounded element, the dryer overheats due to the element being on all the time and the overheating causes the thermal fuse to eventually blow. Grounded elements are fairly common. Try this. Disconnect the wiring plug from the motor. Turn the timer to a heat cycle. If the heat element comes on, it's grounded. By unplugging the motor, you have removed the centrifugal switch from the equation.
Eric
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Thanks for that explanation Eric - very helpful! I appreciate your time.
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