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fastguy1955  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, January 27, 2015 6:20:43 PM(UTC)
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fastguy1955

Rank: Member

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Joined: 1/27/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Hello! Have had my Thermador (1999 PRDS304us) oven element fail massively for the second time! This time it created quite a mess in the oven, and after replacing the element, I found the new element doesn't heat up. I need some guidance as to what troubleshooting procedures to follow. When trying to heat the oven on either bake or convection there is no heating from the element, on convection the circulating fan doesn't activate either. The indicator lights on the front show the oven is powered and heating.

Any help?

Thanks in Advance

Mark Meyer
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Servicer  
#2 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2015 7:10:53 AM(UTC)
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Servicer

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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191

Does it broil? If not, the thermal limiter may have been damaged when the element blew. The other component that may have been damaged is a device called a hot wire relay. The number was 414589, but it's been discontinued.

If you're comfortable around high voltage (120/240 AC) and you want to check the hot wire relay, you'll unplug the wire that's on the H1 terminal, start a bake cycle, then look for 120v on the terminal. If the heat light's on and there's no power, you have a bad hot wire relay. Be careful around the wire that's on L1, because it's always energized.

For the thermal limiter, turn off the breaker and do a continuity check across the terminals. If it's open, it needs to be replaced. There's a reset button on the top, but, from my experience, when they open after an element goes out, they cannot be reset.

Both components can be found behind the kick panel. The hot wire relay is flat and rectangular with a large, round capacitor on it. The thermal limiter mounts to the underside of the cavity and has two wires going to it. The thermal limiter part number is 487206.

This site has photos of both parts, which will help you identify them.

KC
fastguy1955  
#3 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2015 7:37:37 AM(UTC)
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fastguy1955

Rank: Member

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Joined: 1/27/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Thank you for the response! If either the thermal limiter or hot wire relay needs replacing, where would you suggest I look? The broiler doesn't seem to work.


Mark
Servicer  
#4 Posted : Friday, January 30, 2015 8:06:07 AM(UTC)
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Servicer

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191

If you're asking where to find the parts, the thermal limiter can be found on this site and you will need to search the internet for for the hot wire relay. Maybe e - bay will have one.
fastguy1955  
#5 Posted : Friday, February 6, 2015 4:33:15 AM(UTC)
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fastguy1955

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Thank you Servicer! The Broiler does seem to function, at least partially heats and the convection fan is active while broiling, but nothing at all from the bake element. Found a hot wire relay (Eaton #66006-AF2) the was across the S and N terminals. Since the N isn't used would it make sense to move the lead to the R? If that doesn't solve it, do I look at the thermal limiter anyway?
Servicer  
#6 Posted : Friday, February 6, 2015 6:04:07 AM(UTC)
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Servicer

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 191

Regarding the broiler, it should glow red during broil. If it doesn't, look at the limiter. It's odd that the convection fans are running during broil, because they should only turn on in convection. That would be a problem with the selector switch, but it shouldn't affect your bake element operation.

Regarding the relay you've found, I don't know anything about it, so I'd contact the manufacturer to insure it can handle the load put on in by the elements. Also, you'll want to know which to terminals are the coil, i.e. N&S or N&S. If the coil contacts are N&S, use them.

KC
fastguy1955  
#7 Posted : Friday, February 6, 2015 10:10:32 AM(UTC)
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fastguy1955

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Joined: 1/27/2015(UTC)
Posts: 4

Thanks Servicer! I'm on the trail of a thermal limiter, and as far as the hot wire relay goes, when I opened the new one appearances were the same inside old versus new. The N terminal went nowhere and was missing on the OEM unit. The only visible difference was where the Capacitor bridged two terminals R and S on the OEM unit, and bridged S and N on the Eaton Part.
the OEM part has NO N at all. The Eaton part is just a terminal not connecting with the relay. Would that suggest that a wire should be run to a neutral block? If so, what location?
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