Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/17/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Hi KitchenAid side-by-side built-in fridge (7 yrs old) is not defrosting properly. After manually melting the ice off the coils with a hairdryer, in about 7-10 days it ices up again and then the temps in the fridge go up. The frost pattern seems to be normal, except the top right hand side starts to build up excessive frost. The location is right next to the air return vent. See pics taken one week after manual defrost. What could be causing the evaporator coils to build up this excessive frost only on one side? How does this get fixed? A little history.....several months ago when the fridge stopped working completely we sent the control board to be repaired. This defrost issue came about after the tech put in the repaired board. He then advised to replace the evaporator fan, which we did. When that didn't solve the defrost issue, the tech said there was nothing else to do, he said the control board wasn't signaling the auto defrost cycle. He basically said we were out of luck, since KitchenAid doesn't make new control boards for this model anymore. Not wanting to accept that, I've searched these boards for answers. In the meantime, I've replaced the defrost thermostat and the thermistor. I have also confirmed that the fridge IS going into the defrost cycle about very 8 hours. However, in about 7-10 days the frost builds up again on the right hand side and I need to manually defrost the coils with a hairdryer to keep it working properly. Can anyone give me some ideas of what to do next? fred31 attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
I was hoping someone else would reply to you re: someone who has had and fixed this on this unit. It looks like it is an air flow problem. See the attachments for the info I could find on similar problems. Perhaps moving the defrost thermostat to the left would help. Problem with this would be that it might cause too mush heat in the freezer when doing a defrost. Sorry that I cannot help on this but I have never had to fix this. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/17/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Thanks for the reply Denman.
I took a good look at the insulation and behind where the heater threads through the foam padding it has curled downwards in the back and doesn't have a snug fit. All he other insulating padding looks good and snug.
I will look into replacing this. As well as moving the thermostat as you suggested.
Also, when I took a look today the drain hole was completely iced-over. Could this be either a sign of something or a contributor?
Just a thought, is there any possibility that the heater could burn out in that section only? Would it be worth it to replace the heater as well. Looks a little tricky to do, so I don't want to mess with it if not needed.
Thanks again for the help.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
[COLOR="Blue"]Also, when I took a look today the drain hole was completely iced-over. Could this be either a sign of something or a contributor?[/COLOR]
I think that this is probably a separate problem but am not 100% sure of this.
Check your freezer temperature. It should be between 0 and 5 degrees F.
If it is too cold perhaps that would effect boththe draining and the defrosting.
For the frozen drain:
Check that the drain tray is nice and clean. Anything that could slow down the water draining out could cause a problem. Sometimes a buffed up wax coating on the tray will help the water drain.
Check/clean the drain tube.
If plugged a turkey baster with warm water, an air compressor with low pressure or a wire can often be used to clear it.
Also check that it is not plugged with dust etc. at the drain pan end.
You might as well clean the condenser/compressor fan and the condenser coils while you are down there.
If it looks like stuff is growing in the tube I would flush it with a 10% bleach solution. This should kill the stuff and let you flush it out. You may have to do this several times, let it sit for 15 minutes or so between flushes.
Be careful that the drip tray does not overflow and empty the drip tray after you are done.
Be sure to unplug the unit while doing this.
[COLOR="Blue"]
Just a thought, is there any possibility that the heater could burn out in that section only?[/COLOR]
I do not think this is possible.
The heater is basically just a length of ni-chrome wire. re: heat wire, so if there is a burn out then the entire heater will not work.
There is one scenario where it might not heat up and that is if there is a burn out of the insulating ceramic. Then the nichrome shorts to ground and only part of it will heat up. I doubt this could be the problem.
[COLOR="Blue"]Would it be worth it to replace the heater as well.[/COLOR]
I do not think so.
For some reason I cannot get into the site with tech sheets.
I will try again later.
This would give you how to force a defrost. then you could seee what is happening though running it with the cover off will not be exavtly the same as when the cover is on.
You probably noticed that I keep saying think which is because I have never run into this problem. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/17/2014(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Back again......I have still been dealing with this issue, although now the fridge will last up to 2 weeks till I have to manually defrost with a hairdryer.
I looked into the airflow and DID notice that on that right side the foam insulating piece directly above the evaporator coils was a little warped and not fitted perfectly snug. Since the foam replacement kit for my model is a little pricey at $50, I decided to see if I could fix it myself. I wrapped a thin piece of cardboard with ducktape and stuck in under the existing foam piece....propping it up. Not a perfect solution....but, I just wanted to see if it would make any difference. It did! Problem is not solved, but now it takes twice as long for the fridge to totally ice up on that side.
I am ordering the insultating kit and will replace all the pieces.
I am still concerned about the heater, and got lucky the other day and was able to observe during a defrost cycle.
I noticed that the bottom section of the heater glows bright red at the start of the defrost cycle for about a minute. The top right section of the heater (where the coils have excessive frost) remains black in color and I don't notice any change in color....that section does not burn red.
Is this normal? Should the entire heating coil turn red in color during the defrost cycle. Also, how long should the heater be giving off heat?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Here are your parts Parts for KitchenAid KSSC48QTS00 Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.comI do not know if the entire defrost element gets red but if it is just one area then I would say that this would not be normal. The attached KSSC-A shows info about the defrost is the Electronic Control section. Please see the attached for a couple tech sheets for this unit. Following is a link to a manual which may also be useful to you even though it does not show your exact model. You will have to join the site and be logged in to be able to download it. http://appliancejunk.com...&id=212;t=1422034382Sorry I wish I had actual experience with this problem so I could give knowledgeable advice |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
