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Bostic924  
#1 Posted : Sunday, December 7, 2014 1:58:46 AM(UTC)
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Bostic924

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I RECENTLY DID A SELF CLEAN ANDTHE CYCLE STOPPED PREMATURELY ENDED UP HAVING TO JUMP THE DOOR LOCK TO GET THE OVEN DOOR OPEN. UNFORTUNATELY NOW MY OVEN WILL NOT HEAT UP. WHEN I PUT THE BAKE OR BROIL SELECTIONS ONLY THING THAT WORKS ARE THE OVEN LIGHT (HEATING LIGHT DOES NOT ILLUMINATE) AND BLOWERS OR FANS ALSO WORK. I HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING TO MY KNOWLEDGE TO FIX THIS PROBLEM I'M STUMPED. PLEASE HELP!

REPLACED HOT WIRE RELAY ( ORIGINAL HAD CONTINUITY)

REPLACED SELF CLEAN RELAY

REPLACED K1 RELAY

BOTH ELEMENTS HAVE CONTINUITY AND 120v READING.

220 AT POWER SUPPLY


ANY TECHNICIANS OUT THERE THAT CAN HELP!?!?!?!? HOPING TO HAVE UP AND RUNNING FOR CHRISTMAS!
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BoardRestored  
#2 Posted : Sunday, December 7, 2014 6:21:43 PM(UTC)
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BoardRestored

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Hi Bostic,
You should have 240v at the two wires leading to the element vs. 120v. To me, the control board sounds suspect.

Verify that you are indeed getting 240v at the terminal block on the oven and not just the wall. This will rule out a bad plug & terminal block.

Next, you'll need to take your voltage reading directly from the board (at the pins specified on your schematic) you're looking for 240v there. This way you can rule out any thermal fuses, cutoffs, and the like that may be causing you issues. However, the fact that you're getting 1/2 the power to the terminals points towards the fact that your fuses appear to be good.
If you're not comfortable working with 240v and reading a schematic, I would recommend calling someone who is.


Let us know if you have questions!
Bostic924  
#3 Posted : Sunday, December 7, 2014 6:34:38 PM(UTC)
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Bostic924

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I appreciate the response. I will try everything you stated hopefully somthing works at this point. My serial number for GE MONOGRAM # Fg2016107
denman  
#4 Posted : Monday, December 8, 2014 12:46:30 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts.
Parts for GE ZDP36L6D2SS Range - AppliancePartsPros.com

Remove power from the unit and check the high temp Cut-off (item 540 in section 02). It should be 0 ohms.

Looks like it is the resettable type (push in the red button).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Bostic924  
#5 Posted : Thursday, December 11, 2014 6:48:02 PM(UTC)
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Bostic924

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Denmen: I checked the high temp cut out. Ohms out ok. The button is pressed and I also tried to bypass the high temp cut out by connecting both wires I still cannot get my oven to heat. All options work all fans work also the self clean clicks on door locks but cannot get heat.

BOARD RESTORED: I checked my power coming in I have 240. Also terminal block is operational. All relays including the got temp cut out have continuity. All options work elements will not heat up.
BoardRestored  
#6 Posted : Thursday, December 11, 2014 7:13:41 PM(UTC)
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BoardRestored

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With the unit UNPLUGGED inspect your control board markings.
On your board - you should have a bake L1 & L2 terminals. Usually they're going to be the same color as what's going to your bake element.

Once you've located the bake L1 & L2 you will need to take a voltage reading of these 2 while the oven is turned on and in bake.

Proceed with extreme caution:
With the unit plugged in, the bake turned on
Set your meter to volt reading
Be careful not to touch anything but your meter probes. (Don't let your fingers touch the metal portion of the probe)
Place one probe on L1
Place the other probe on L2

Your reading should be 240v. If not, it's a bad board.

Let us know what you find.
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