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I've got an oven problem with my Viking VGIC308:
It will typically light just fine, get to temperature, and periodically re-light as things cool down and it needs to get back up to temperature. No problem. Only sometimes it doesn't re-light. The oven temp light is on so I know the thermostat is working, but there's no gas and no ignition electrode sparking (both are easy to hear when it's working properly). Eventually I notice that it hasn't re-lit, and I turn the knob down until the indicator light shuts off. When I turn the knob back up to temp and the indicator light comes on, the oven either lights back up, or I repeat this a few times until it does.
The ignition electrode seems to have no problem sparking the rest of the time, the gas valve gives me gas just fine, and the thermostat and indicator light seem to be on the right page. What's going on here? Who manages the gas valve? That's what I imagine should be replaced(?)
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Talked to a competent tech at Viking support(!) who thinks the problem is almost certainly the solenoid in the gas valve. Going to replace the gas valve and see how it fares.
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Did that solve your problem...replacing your solenoid?
I have a VIKING VGRC3656BDSS 36" that is also giving me oven problems...only 1 manifold lights, although both igniters are glowing red. Actually, both manifolds will come on...but then one quickly shuts off, the other continuing. The broiler circuit seems to work.
Do you the solenoid is now defective...about 6 yr old stove.
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It totally solved my problem and it's a super easy replacement. -BUT- my oven uses a sparking ignitor and yours uses a hot-surface ignitor. AFAICT those are a frequent point of failure on the Vikings that use them, and pretty cheap to replace ($20-30/ea on e bay). See this thread for more. I think you're supposed to replace them both at the same time.
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Both igniters glow very red hot...they look exactly the same both igniters, and one burner lights up apparently perfectly full gas flow. So it seems both igniters are ok, but something of issue with gas solenoid? When I swapped the connectors of the burner on the solenoid, I was able to get the other side to light up, and then the opposite burner did not ignite. So it would seem the igniters are ok, but something is wrong with the solenoid? Like I said BOTH burners light up on starting, and then one shuts down after a few seconds, but igniter stays glowing red?
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Rank: Member
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Rank: Member
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also see this pageQuote:PB010084 DUAL SAFETY VALVE Used on all non DSI Ignition systems except VGR classic models IMPORTANT NOTE: Most folks who think they need this Dual Thermal Valve actually need TWO IGNITORS--Suspect an Ignitor Issue When:
1. Delayed Ignition or Constant Reignition Attempts
2. Not Igniting
3. Uneven Heat
4. Struggling to Make the Set Temperature
5. If you haven't changed the ignitors in the last 3 - 5 years (both at the same time)
Please note: Just because you see igniter glowing does NOT mean that the igniter is ok. In most cases the igniter can still glow when bad and the only true test is to take an amp draw to Igniter. Viking Igniters should pull between 3.2 - 3.6 amps.
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On your above checklist, really only #5 is categorically true...5 yr old oven, never replaced igniters (but oven is used MAX 1 every 2 weeks or so).
By delayed ignition, meaning? This range usually takes 10-20 seconds before the gas valve opens (normal historic operation). Currently, the same time frame is observed, just sporadic lighting.
By consistent gas flow, not sure I can attest unless the valve is engaged on. But when the valve does open after a set time allowing the igniters to glow, both burners will come on briefly (can visually see full gas flow, or low flow), and then one will go out and the other will stay on full, go to low flow, or die. Sporadic behaviour I observe on repeated on/offs of the main oven.
When the flame goes out, there is NO gas flow.
There is no HISSING sound/smell of gas at all when there is NO flame visible, even though igniters are on.
By the way, the BROIL setting works fine.
Do the burners have to be WHITE or red/orange? They are red/orange.
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One more observation. When I turn on oven, delay to ignition is of the order of 30 seconds, seems way longer than usual.
So now one burner comes on full force...then after few seconds, goes low, and then OFF. No gas/hissing sound. After a few seconds, it will REPEAT this behaviour...and then continually goes through this on, low, off cycle. The other burner does not light at all.
Both igniters glowing red.
So this behaviour would suggest a wonky gas valve?
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An old thread...maybe I get a response...3 series range/oven with surface ignition. I use the oven 2-3x/week. I've replaced my it motors twice in 5 years. No big deal. R gas tube lights (used to)- L tube needs replaced as the gas orifice at the igniter has expanded due to corrosion. But that's not my real problem...
Used it Thursday. Friday, oven won't light at all. No power to ignites, no gas flow. Broiler works fine. Stovetop works fine. Ideas team?
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