I have a Whirlpool dryer that I'd really like to fix. Here's the situation.

We tried to use the dryer one day and the motor wouldn't start. I heard a click from the machine control electronics board behind the user interface board. I found a tech sheet for this dryer that gave me quite a bit of information on how to diagnose issues with this dryer. I got to the "manual load test" so I could try to isolate if the wires to the motor were getting power and found that when enabling the load test to just turn on the motor, after about 10 seconds, the display with flash "F" then "1". The tech sheet said that I should replace the machine control electronics.

I went ahead and ordered the machine control electronics from AppliancePartsPros.com but when I installed the one I received, the same problem happened: motor won't turn on and manual load test produced a flashing "F" then "1".

Thinking something else was wrong, I took the dryer apart more to get the motor and tested the resistance of the start winding and the main winding. Both were very close to 2 ohms (start: 2.0, main: 1.8). The tech sheet suggests that given these readings, the motor must be okay.

To test voltage being delivered to the motor, I bypassed both the door switch (forced closed) and belt switch (forced closed), then measured the voltage between the input line (white, where the utility voltage enters the dryer) and the motor line (blue, P9-1, on the machine control electronics). When I try to start a drying cycle, either using the manual load test or by starting the dryer normally, I see no voltage on the motor line.

I saw in a few places that a bad motor sometimes hums when attempting to start. I hear no such humming when attempting to start. Also, the motor is not warm, suggesting that power is not being applied to it.

So, my question is: is it possible that the machine control electronics I received has the same problem as my original machine control electronics? I would rather be reasonably sure that it's indeed bad before asking for a replacement.

Yup, did that in various ways: isolated the door switch and tested continuity both in open and closed; tested continuity between P8-4 and P8-3; and tested continuity between P8-4 and utility neutral.

Back to customer service...

Thanks!