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akostrzewa77  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, October 15, 2014 4:23:42 AM(UTC)
akostrzewa77

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Ok all, I am completely stumped on this one... first my problem started with the fact that my dryer was not drying my clothes completely so I started the normal run down on diagnosing the problems.. tested sensors for continuity(hi limit sensor, flame sensor, cycling thermostat and checked ignitor and was fine but noticed it was short cycling cutting out at 120 degrees instead of 155 degrees which brought me to replace the cycling thermostat only because of the temperature early cut out, the continuity and resistance was fine on it. so I put it all back together and all to seem to be working fine for a short while.. but then shortly after my wife tried drying her clothes it failed again. i watched the ignitor light then go out after a short run the the ignitor tried to light shortly after that but would not relight... which brought me to think it may be the silanoids on the gas valve, but just for good measure i started checking for continuity on switches again and now found the high limit to have a speratic reading and will not go to zero on my meter. also I forgot to mention while my wife was trying to dry her clothes and it stopped lighting that the timer never advanced?? how would that have any bearing on what I am looking at? Please any info would be greatly appreciated considering i am about to put my head through a will trying to figure this one out! Thank you.
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akostrzewa77  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, October 15, 2014 8:58:26 AM(UTC)
akostrzewa77

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Nobody huh?? :( could really use the help!!
fairbank56  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, October 15, 2014 10:04:06 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Timer will not advance in auto dry unless there is heat and the operating thermostat cycles off/on. Sounds like you have faulty solenoid coils. Very common problem. They test fine, work fine at first but then fail when they get warm. Don't buy cheap third party coils. There are so many junk coils out there. Only buy genuine Whirlpool FSP parts.

http://www.appliancepartspros.c...or-279834-ap3094251.html

Eric
akostrzewa77  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, October 15, 2014 11:01:32 AM(UTC)
akostrzewa77

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But what about the speratic reading on the limit switch not going to zero when checking for continuity? wouldn't that create a false reading? I figured it might be the coils also but I want to be sure before i just go changing parts.
fairbank56  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, October 15, 2014 11:40:42 AM(UTC)
fairbank56

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Well, that may just be because your not getting good contact with your meter probes. Are you saying the ignitor does not come on at all now? If it comes on, then the hi limit has continuity although it is possible that the contacts are intermittent. Just jump the hi limit out to test the dryer. If your still having the problem of the burner initially lighting and you have flame and heat but then won't light again even though ignitor glows, it's the gas coils. The hi limit is just a safety device and should never normally open unless the dryer overheats due to an air flow problem.

Eric
akostrzewa77  
#6 Posted : Thursday, October 16, 2014 8:26:56 AM(UTC)
akostrzewa77

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hey Eric,

I had already started the jumping out the high limit process and testing the dryer's cycling patterns before i have received this message and it seem's me and you were on the same page because it did after all turn out to be the gas valve silanoid's. I just wanted to be sure before i started replacing parts and it did not occur to me that I should just bypass the hi limit to solve the problem! I just find it extreamley odd that i had a malfunctioning cycling thermostat and bad silanoids at the same time. anyways thank you for the help. :)

Andy.
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