I guess that just because I have never seen it does not mean it could not happen.
Sounds like all the keys on the panel are bad.

All I can suggest is to try replacing the keypad/control panel (item 1 in section 02).
I am sort of worried about this as I think something like a over voltage etc. from the control board would have to of occurred for all the keys to go bad at once.

Note that i did look up the keypad and it looks like a standard bubble type keypad. The only reason I mention this is that it does say that a glass/touch keypad is available. This type of keyboard would not act like a bubble keypad as it is active so must have power going to t.
The above is just a straw that I want to be sure has been eliminated.

Parts for Maytag MDB6709AWW1 Dishwasher - AppliancePartsPros.com

Denman,
Hate to intrude on someone else's *thread, but I'm in a city that has city employees that drive around slapping fines on people if they see a appliance when they drive by, so I need to get some info FAST to fix a machine a neighbor threw out.
Toe-kick with Technical Service info is missing.

Q: Would you happen to know if MDB7709.pdf aka W10142800B / Tech Sheet - W10142800 - Rev C sheet applies to a Maytag Dishwasher Model MDB7609AWS2 ?

(EDIT: MDB7709.pdf is W10142800 (B) dated 2008-12)


APP shows tech sheet as AP4684540 and NOT available.
(EDIT: Mfg part number is W10142800... Found it:
Tech Sheet - W10142800 - Rev C
Revision "C" dated 2011-07
https://s3.amazonaws.com/sm-backend-production-attachments/09001a508020a5f6/Tech%20Sheet%20-%20W10142800%20-%20Rev%20C.pdf)

Additionally, on a MDB7609AWS2 is 16021814 the correct SERVICE MANUAL?



(MDB7609AWS2 = Has Turbidity Sensor, Stainless tub, and door panel- Control panel black plastic, with rectangular black mylar plastic keyboard.. Estimate a 2010 model)

* I will most likely create a thread, and will post what was done to FIX the unit... vs asking for help and never posting back what was done to fix the unit.

MDB7609AWS2 was thrown away by a neighbor who recently bought the house. Them saying they were told by tech the "wiring harness was messed up" and they'd be better off replacing the unit with a new one.
One of the (6) yellow wires where wiring harness connects to Turbidity Sensor was burned.... Harness of (6) yellow wires was CUT all the way thru, which means to me while wiring harness was burning.. they took a knife and cut the wiring while is was powered up.

Don't know if above happened on owners watch or while a "tech" was working on the machine.

Additionally one of the wires that feeds heater coil was cut into.
And the idiots, cut the wiring to fill switch... bypassing that entirely.

Control board "Looks good", (Nothing burned). No corrosion at control board/ribbon cable.
Upon applying power hear a relay clicking once, and that's it so far.
(Fill switch is still bypassed... as wiring is "gone"...

Wondering what is the correct keypress(s) to put unit in diagnostic mode, AND what is the process to TEST just the control board, in that IIRC I read that unplugging the control panel (Keyboard) will do some tests.

.